Rwanda’s Lesson for America

Rwanda demonstrates how leadership can channel a group’s character toward progress or destruction.

The highest-octane fuel on Earth is a shared purpose between individuals. Civilization’s steps forward and backwards can be traced to people bound together to change their world. It has propelled explorers into outer space and it has buried neighbors under own cruelty.

This double-edged sword defines Rwanda’s narrative, where my wife and I have spent considerable time, and the moral of its story deserves attention as we decide upon who will be the next US President. Rwanda’s success toward becoming the model 21st century African nation is drawn from the same well that propelled the country’s near-suicide in 1994. So what’s the difference? Leadership.

Rwandan society inculcates a view that individuals find safety inside the group. This manifests through subtle and overt social norms: students are less likely to ask questions or make points in class (girls especially), community-wide functions are widely held and attended, and Rwandans are generally receptive to top-down leadership. Umuganda, a modern iteration of an ancient tradition of monthly community service, is universally attended, not just because no-shows are fined, but because deferring to the community is a deeply seeded value within Rwandan psychology.

Conversations we had while working at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village and Akilah Institute for Women in Kigali further revealed popular devotion to community. These teens and students aspire to succeed financially, not to amass personal wealth, but to create jobs for their family and neighbors; their altruism is refreshing, if not startling. It is the engine for a remarkably efficient government initiative to push Rwanda into the 21st century. President Paul Kagame is transforming its capital, Kigali, from a dusty third-world ghost town into a modern center of commerce with new roads, hotels, restaurants, public Wi-Fi, and a brand new, state-of-the-art convention center, as well as a streamlined process to start a business. Rwanda is a developing nation in the truest sense of the term and its leaders push the country towards bolder and more ambitious achievements every day.

But one needs only recall 1994 to understand how dark this type of collective mobilization can turn. Of the myriad factors underlying the genocide, leadership stands at the center. Since Belgian colonizers showed up 90 years earlier, Rwandan leaders trained their people to view all issues through the tribal, zero-sum lens: “Is this good for Hutus or is this good for Tutsis?”. As Rwanda’s corrupt government officials felt power slip through their fingers in the early 1990’s, they doubled down on their only tactic: divide and conquer. That culminated with an unprecedented, vigilante-styled slaughter of a million innocents, committed by the victims’ countrymen, neighbors and even family members, who mercilessly carried out their leaders’ will.

This should be ice water in the face of those Americans whose pessimism clouds their view of the choice in this election. Beyond the enormous policy gulf, there is a canyon separating their demeanor and their driving message. Let’s put aside all the ways Trump personally disqualifies himself from the Presidency on an almost daily basis: He is a sexual assaulter (criminally so), he touts his ignorance, rudeness and cruelty as virtues, and his financial successes have hinged on exploiting the tax code, maliciously manipulating our legal system, and preying on smaller, vulnerable businesses. His moral bankruptcy seems to know no limits or shame, so what sustains his campaign? Sadly, his message, which is: “Things are the worse than ever! And you know whose fault it is? The politicians, the media and the PC losers! Instead of helping you, they’d rather lend a hand to illegal Mexican immigrants and Muslim refugees, some of whom are terrorists(!), while shipping your jobs to Mexico and China!”

Juxtaposed his message with what is Hillary’s angle, which is: “It’s been tough, but even if you can’t feel it, things are getting better. If we keep making incremental changes and use our growing diversity to our advantage, eventually we will all feel the improvements.”

Say what you will about Hillary, her authenticity, and secretive tendencies; she isn’t selling demagoguery. I am certainly not the first, tenth, or ten millionth person to say that Trump’s Make America Great Again campaign has all the sights, sounds, and smells of a would-be dictator. If this were Europe, we would just be a few “Jewish-run banks,” references away from a textbook campaign of fascism.

What would four years of poisoning our national discourse with violent chauvinism, xenophobia, divisiveness, and suspicion do to us as a country? Once we start normalizing molesting women, scapegoating Mexican-Americans, and excluding Muslim-Americans, where does it end? While America’s individualism is a repellent to demagoguery, we are not immune to the danger of delivering the world’s largest pedestal and levers to such an unconscionable man. Trump may not have the foresight to exploit a divided American people toward truly nefarious ends, but there are men surrounding him who would do just that.

Rwanda needed to heal societal cleaves. Instead their leaders pulled them further apart and tore their country to shreds in the process. Emerging from their own ashes, a new set of leaders chose togetherness over division and Rwanda has been ascendant ever since. As we approach an election unrivaled in the profundity of its consequences, I would remind my fellow Americans to learn from Rwanda, leadership matters.

Reflections on #africamp

This is our final blog post for our four month trip to Africa. Instead of my usual pontifications, this blog is broken down into a number of “top ten lists” in order to succinctly share the highlights; enjoy!

The 10 Best Things We Did 

Attend ASYV Debate Tournament

After being in the village for like two weeks, we joined the coaches and participants and spent a day in rapid-fire debates on the motion: The Rwandan government should significantly cut its current dependence on foreign aid. I learned a lot about the effects of foreign aid on Rwanda and the global south in general. But more importantly had an incredible day watching and coaching my team of three awesome girls who went on to win the city championship!

Akilah One-on-One meetings

The work we did at Akilah has meaningful in so many ways, and one of those ways in how it allowed us to jump on motos and meet with individuals around Kigali, whether it was worth current students, alumnae, or private sector employers who regularly hired interns and graduates from Akilah. The meetings gave Jamie and I an up-close look into the developing private sector of Rwanda and those who are building it from the ground-up.

Gorilla Trekking

Being close enough to see a fully grown silverback gorilla change its facial expression as it finishes eating one thing and considers if he wants to eat the next thing is…rad. Seriously, it was like close encounter of the best kind.

Driving the Garden Route (including Winelands)

South Africa is immersed in natural beauty and winding our way through the hills along the South and East Coast became like a 4 day drive through a series of impressionist paintings.

SAFARI!

Big Cats, Elephants, Hippos, Giraffes, Craters, Zebras, there is no better way to get lost in nature than safari in Masai Mara, Serengeti and Ngorogoro Crater.

Stonehenge

After safari, it was fitting to go from basking in the natural world to trying to pry into the minds of Neolithic men and women who used this site to…bury the dead? Observe the seasons? Pray? All of the above? Few places leave you with more questions that Stonehenge so obviously, we loved it.

Driving Tour of Capetown with Noel

Our driving tour with Noel was amazing because he showed us the sights and shared with us the stories of South Africa. Not just the ones that feel good to hear, about what a saint Mandela is or how great it was for Apartheid to be overthrown without a war. But he also told us the stories about government abuse and corruption that is severely souring the sweetness of what post-Apartheid South Africa could have looked like. For the comprehensiveness and the nuance that we learned, we will forever be grateful. 

White Water Rafting down the Nile

Jamie and I are not extreme sporters but we like to have fun. Rafting the Nile was about as far as we could go. We paddled our way through a couple of Category 5 rapids, got stuck under a 14 foot waterfall (that we rafted over) and we capsized twice…each time there was like a half second when one part of me went “huh, is this how Jamie tells everyone that I died?” But anyway, it was super-super fun and wouldn’t trade it back for anything. 

Attended Rwanda’s National Genocide Memorial at Amahoro National Stadium

While we didn’t see the Agahozo Shalom students perform, joining with Rwandans from around the country to come together to remember such a recent, painful, confusing and real trauma in ther collective psyche and individual lives was an honor. And because Rwandans are such hospitable people, we were welcomed into such a private, vulnerable moment with open arms and teary eyes. It was a moment through which I will feel connected to Rwanda for a very long time.

Spice Tour and Beach out in Zanzibar

With our volunteering and safari behind us, we took our last few days in Africa to check out Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania. While there we both went on a spice tour, where we used all five senses to learn more about how spices and herbs are planted, grow and are used culinarily, medicinally and cosmetically. We’ve done a lot of walking tours, but from this one we said, “Wait, but really?” way more than any other. Then we spent a few days to just sit on the beach at a resort and drink and eat like we were rehearsing for a Corona commercial. We stayed at the Beach Breeze Resort and I recommend it to all. We were also lucky because it was peak rainy season so prices were low, but it was still sunny and in the high eighties on most days. #winning.

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10 Teachers and What They Taught Us

  1. JC, Executive Director of Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – showed us how to hit that balance of bringing the the right people to the table with the right jobs and supporting them, but in a way that lets them do what you hired them to do, and therefore thrive.
  2. Vincent, Village Director of Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – taught us how to look at a start-up and begin building, in order to go from good to great
  3. Ritah, Alumnae Affiars Manager at Akilah Institute for Women – taught us how to love a job through building the relationships through those you serve
  4. Aline, Country Director for Akilah Institute for Women taught me about part of the psychology of Rwndans as refugees and what that means to their values and sense of self-value
  5. Noel, Tour Guide in Cape Town – taught us to look under the surface to see the stories less told in South Africa, post-Aparthied
  6. Nida, graduate of Akilah Institute for Women – taught us that where there’s a will there’s a way
  7. Francis, Tour Guide for Glory Safaris – taught us about the Maasai and how to consider the balance of thousands of years of traditions with modernity
  8. Jessica, Director of Registration and Career Development at Akilah Institute for Women – gave us a crash course in “Re-organizing the systems of your Start-up” through our work together at Akilah
  9. Maxime, graduate at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – who inspired us with his ambition, belief in hard work, and gratitude and eagerness towards opportunities and uphill battles
  10. Phyllis, fellow volunteer at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – taught us how to give without imposing, to support without commandeering, to give in the truest sense of the word

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10 Assumptions Going to East Africa Tears Down

  1. Africa is too backwards for there to be significant progress any time soon.
  2. Africa is a great place to send charity to, not business contracts.
  3. African women are comfortable accepting a life similar to that of their mothers, grandmothers and great-grandmothers
  4. The best way for African problems to be solved is to find the equivalent problem in the US or Europe and just apply the model.
  5. Travelling in Africa is not safe.
  6. Unless they are rich, Africans do not speak English.
  7. Africans do not deal with issues around ‘colorism’ since almost everyone is black.
  8. Africa just needs “time” to get better.
  9. Africans think life is cheap.
  10. Africans are a “simple” people.

The 10 Things We Will Do When We Return to Africa

  1. Climb Kilimanjaro and do some Safari Hikes and Balloon Rides
  2. Do some work with African Innovation Prize
  3. Check out the Apartheid Museum in Soweto
  4. Attend Passover or Shabbat with the Abuyadaya in Uganda
  5. Stay over for a few nights in Addis Ababa
  6. See Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe
  7. Hike up a volcano in Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo
  8. Spend more time in Capetown and the Winelands in South Africa
  9. Visit the Nyamatta Church Genocide Memorial in the Southern Province of Rwanda
  10. Hike around Namibia

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 #africampers out…for now.

Afripreneurs and Lionesses

“If the Asian Tiger was the economic success story of the last decades of the 20th century, the African Lion is going to be the success story of the twenty-first.” –Ashish J. Thakkar, Founder, Mara Group and Africa’s first billionaire 

“Women Hold Half the Sky.” –Mao Zedong

To explain the timing of our #africamp adventure: In December, Jamie left her long and celebrated tenure at Camp Tel Yehudah and I completed my MBA at Baruch College. It was with a new education, interest and curiosity towards private sector solutions that I arrived to Africa, and my expectations for seeing those solutions in action were met and easily exceeded.

Foreign aid conversations produce endless eye-rolls and shrugs. Our ethos dictates to give to the less fortunate; but the results of our foreign aid produce a mixed picture at best, and a failure at worst. But this is not just a foreign aid challenge, it is a general philanthropy problem. Improving “monitoring and evaluation” is an organizational hot topic in the non-profit world to compensate for the philanthropic sector’s lack of access to the best monitoring and evaluation tool: the market.

As Jacqueline Novogratz, states in The Blue Sweater, “Philanthropy alone lacks the feedback mechanisms of markets, which are the best listening devices we have.”

Businesses serve and rely on their customers. If a company cannot provide satisfactory services for a reasonable price, the customer finds it somewhere else and the company dies a natural death. However, many non-profits serve an audience but rely on a different group: funders. This bifurcation often creates “zombie” organizations that do not effectively serve their audience, but still limp along because funders artificially keep them alive, often because public fawning and praise for one’s generosity is as addictive as any drug.

This has proven to be an insurmountable challenge for much of the non-profit world.

Jamie Workshop

Jamie leads a skill-building workshop on communication at Akilah.

The Global South, and Africa in particular, understands the depth of this flaw. Around a trillion dollars of charity and foreign aid have arrived to the continent since the 1950’s and the impact of all that money is… not much. Foreign aid’s most notable, and regrettable, impact has been letting cruel and incompetent dictatorships off the hook by building the country’s infrastructure for them, allowing them to pilfer national reserves. I suggest John Kerry take a page from Josh Ruxin’s book, Thousand Hills to Heaven, “the most corrupt fifteen percent of nations – twenty-five countries, more or less, should be on the foreign aid black list, except…for dire emergencies.”

Just as important, the mindset of Westerners building Africa on behalf of Africans promotes a narrative that they are unable to do it themselves; a particularly dangerous form of racism masked by noble intentions.

My time here has taught me that Africans do not need, or want, Westerners to come build the continent for them. Rwanda’s government has made cultivating local business and attracting foreign investments a top priority. Officially registering a business is not only easy, but something that can be done in six hours. President Kagame has created a culture of accountability and service within the government, setting apart Rwanda from her neighbors. Philanthropies are noticing, and more enlightened ones have figured out not to lecture Rwandans, but listen first and then support.

We had several points of contact with the African Innovation Prize, which helps schools and organizations run business plan competitions, offering educational support for contestants and one-on-one mentorship for contest winners as they get their business started. Their model involves bringing in Western MBAs and business practitioners to mentor contestant winners three months. If Jamie and I don’t find work that we like in New York, you can expect us back here in that capacity.

What’s even more encouraging is that women are leading the way and the men increasingly not only realize it, but embrace it. Rwanda’s First Lady hosts a national “Miss Geek Competition,” challenging female Rwandan students to submit concepts to improve Rwanda’s standard of living through tech-based solutions. One of the students I advised at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village, Jermaine, submitted a concept to create a text message based national emergency response system. Another student, Ornella, wants to create an app that gives women access to information, both from professionals and crowd-sourced, on how to protect their reproductive health. One of my projects at Agahozo Shalom was advising on how to start a business plan competition for students, which we want to call “Start-up Rwanda” and will augment and showcase students’ creativity, problem-solving and initiative, the foundational elements of entrepreneurship.

Last week Jamie and I saw the enterprising skills of Rwandan women at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center, which runs a grassroots community tourism service with cooking classes, walking tours, and hand-made merchandise. They take “women’s work” and redefine it to make women financially independently.

Cooking Class

Learning how to cook at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center with Aminatha!

Jamie and I spent April consulting at the Akilah Institute for Women, which provides degrees to East African women in hospitality management, information technology management, and entrepreneurship. Jamie has developed a series of professional skill-building workshops; I worked with staff and alumnae to launch an alumnae association. The undertaking of Akilah is incredible, as are the women, who dedicate themselves to gaining the skills to provide for themselves, their family and communities. These young women come from across East Africa and epitomize how this generation is cutting against the historical grain, which dictated that men earn money while women stay home.

Andrew and Nida

Selfie with Nida, Inaugural President of the Akilah Alumnae Association.

None of these women is more impressive than Nida Giselle Iraguha, who graduated in 2015, got a job at Hotel Milles Collines (AKA The Hotel Rwanda) and was quickly offered a managerial position at the Kigali Convention Center (opening soon!). Nida is also the inaugural President of the Akilah Alumnae Association and has the kind of intelligence, charisma, and curiosity to galvanize her peers to move mountains. What is exciting is that soon Nida will be the expectation, not the exception, among Rwandan women.

Jamie and I are honored and inspired to witness and contribute in our own small way to Africa’s 21st century remedy to its 20th century ailments.

 

Part 1: Enter Agahozo Shalom

Mango Tree

The famed mango tree under which Anne Heyman purchased the land for Agahozo Shalom Youth Village.

Shalom from Agahozo Shalom Youth Village!

Thanks for checking in on my and Jamie’s #Africamp travel blog. If you are wondering how Jamie and I are doing and what life is like for us here, you’re at the right place.

First, you can look at our Google Photo Album to get some of the visuals. Now, let’s see. First let me explain how amazing Agahozo Shalom Youth Village (ASYV) is. ASYV is home to over 500 Rwandan teens who are orphans or considered “at risk.” ASYV has created a true home for these teens, and provides them with family, security, love, belief in themselves, an education, and opportunities to continue their studies after high school.

The last two weeks have been transformative. The love that this place radiates can melt away the cynicism off of the most hardened New Yorker’s heart.

The teens are hungry for knowledge and acceptance, and the village supplies both. Every day Jamie and I witness what a community of teens looks like when being sincere, not aloof, is the default cool. Every day we are blown away by something one or more of the kids says or does.

So what have Jamie and I been doing?

Here’s a list on one foot:

English


We’re teaching one to four English lessons a day to classes of 36 students. We were told when we arrived that mastering English is one of the principle turnkeys to build student confidence and prospects for future employment. The educators are remaking the English curriculum, so we get to make up classes as we go. Jamie and I have taught English through singing “We Shall Overcome” (practicing future tense), teaching the “Cha Cha Slide” dance (Imperative tense and reviewing left and right), and a game similar to hide and seek (learning prepositions), among other interactive lessons. My and Jamie’s extensive time doing experiential camp education is really coming in handy right now.

Professional Skills Workshops

The students are really focused on acquiring practical skills in preparation for college, gap year programs and job opportunities that involve skilled labor (IT, hospitality, modern agriculture, etc.) So we have been tasked with creating a set of workshops for entire grades (128 students) to help. We’ve so far run a workshop on how to use the 5 Paragraph essay for to organize their thoughts, personal story building for college essays, and developing interview skills. At some point we will also help build an entrepreneurship curriculum.

Student Leadership


We’ve been asked to develop a leadership training program for the student government. We were just asked to do this so I don’t know entirely what we’re going to do, but it will involve public speaking, active listening, time management, effective messaging, etc.

Debate Team


Kigali Champs

ASYV’s Kigali Debate Team 2016 Champions!

Debate team is a big deal in the village and in Rwanda in general. The debate coach, Maxime, asked us to help out the team. Last week was the Kigali (Capital of Rwanda) City championship. The motion was “Rwanda must increase its pace of reducing its dependency on foreign aid,” and ASYV’s team won! Also, in case you are wondering, debate competitions are conducted entirely in English. The national tournament is in March and we are hoping to do well and advance all the way to the East Africa tournament in Kenya!

Young Judaea Group

Peulah

Mikaela, from Young Judaea’s Year Course, thoughfully leading a discussion about the value of”Tikkun Olam” (repairing the world) with a group of boys.

Not coincidentally, there is a group of 15 teens who are currently on Young Judaea’s Gap Year, Year Course in Israel program (the same one Jamie and I both went on back in the day) who are spending three weeks here at ASYV, learning about the village and Rwanda, and volunteering. We know many of these teens as they were our campers at Camp Tel Yehudah and we’ve enjoyed experiencing the village along with them, helping them lead programs and activities for students and remaining linked to the work we once did in YJ. If you’re wondering why the YJ kids are at this specific village, the answer is that the founder of the village, Anne Heyman, was a YJ alumna who felt that YJ gave her the vision and passion to undertake founding this village (which is modeled after Yemine Orde, an orphan village created in Israel after the Holocaust).

All of the work that we have been doing over the past two weeks has given us a myriad moments upon which to reflect, enjoy and marvel. We already know that by the time we finish our time here at the end of March, we will feel this place woven into us.

What about the Rest of Rwanda? 


So Jamie and I are really busy, like non-stop busy from 8am until 9pm every day. But we’ve also had a chance to get out of village every now and then and the village is an hour or so away from Kigali. We spent a day with the YJ group at the Kigali Genocide Memorial, learning and understanding about the darkness that encapsulated Rwanda in 1994, the shadow of which still looms silently over the country and Rwandan youth. Jamie and I are fortunate that we will be in Kigali on April 7th, to experience the Memorial Day for the genocide. I am especially curious to compare it with Yom HaShoah. During other trips out of the village, we’ve had the chance to eat Rwandan food, shop at small and charming rural markets, ride around Kigali on the bike of motorbikes (it’s how everyone gets around) and see the city. We’ve also hung out with silverback gorillas, but these are all just previews for future blog posts.