Rwanda’s Lesson for America

Rwanda demonstrates how leadership can channel a group’s character toward progress or destruction.

The highest-octane fuel on Earth is a shared purpose between individuals. Civilization’s steps forward and backwards can be traced to people bound together to change their world. It has propelled explorers into outer space and it has buried neighbors under own cruelty.

This double-edged sword defines Rwanda’s narrative, where my wife and I have spent considerable time, and the moral of its story deserves attention as we decide upon who will be the next US President. Rwanda’s success toward becoming the model 21st century African nation is drawn from the same well that propelled the country’s near-suicide in 1994. So what’s the difference? Leadership.

Rwandan society inculcates a view that individuals find safety inside the group. This manifests through subtle and overt social norms: students are less likely to ask questions or make points in class (girls especially), community-wide functions are widely held and attended, and Rwandans are generally receptive to top-down leadership. Umuganda, a modern iteration of an ancient tradition of monthly community service, is universally attended, not just because no-shows are fined, but because deferring to the community is a deeply seeded value within Rwandan psychology.

Conversations we had while working at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village and Akilah Institute for Women in Kigali further revealed popular devotion to community. These teens and students aspire to succeed financially, not to amass personal wealth, but to create jobs for their family and neighbors; their altruism is refreshing, if not startling. It is the engine for a remarkably efficient government initiative to push Rwanda into the 21st century. President Paul Kagame is transforming its capital, Kigali, from a dusty third-world ghost town into a modern center of commerce with new roads, hotels, restaurants, public Wi-Fi, and a brand new, state-of-the-art convention center, as well as a streamlined process to start a business. Rwanda is a developing nation in the truest sense of the term and its leaders push the country towards bolder and more ambitious achievements every day.

But one needs only recall 1994 to understand how dark this type of collective mobilization can turn. Of the myriad factors underlying the genocide, leadership stands at the center. Since Belgian colonizers showed up 90 years earlier, Rwandan leaders trained their people to view all issues through the tribal, zero-sum lens: “Is this good for Hutus or is this good for Tutsis?”. As Rwanda’s corrupt government officials felt power slip through their fingers in the early 1990’s, they doubled down on their only tactic: divide and conquer. That culminated with an unprecedented, vigilante-styled slaughter of a million innocents, committed by the victims’ countrymen, neighbors and even family members, who mercilessly carried out their leaders’ will.

This should be ice water in the face of those Americans whose pessimism clouds their view of the choice in this election. Beyond the enormous policy gulf, there is a canyon separating their demeanor and their driving message. Let’s put aside all the ways Trump personally disqualifies himself from the Presidency on an almost daily basis: He is a sexual assaulter (criminally so), he touts his ignorance, rudeness and cruelty as virtues, and his financial successes have hinged on exploiting the tax code, maliciously manipulating our legal system, and preying on smaller, vulnerable businesses. His moral bankruptcy seems to know no limits or shame, so what sustains his campaign? Sadly, his message, which is: “Things are the worse than ever! And you know whose fault it is? The politicians, the media and the PC losers! Instead of helping you, they’d rather lend a hand to illegal Mexican immigrants and Muslim refugees, some of whom are terrorists(!), while shipping your jobs to Mexico and China!”

Juxtaposed his message with what is Hillary’s angle, which is: “It’s been tough, but even if you can’t feel it, things are getting better. If we keep making incremental changes and use our growing diversity to our advantage, eventually we will all feel the improvements.”

Say what you will about Hillary, her authenticity, and secretive tendencies; she isn’t selling demagoguery. I am certainly not the first, tenth, or ten millionth person to say that Trump’s Make America Great Again campaign has all the sights, sounds, and smells of a would-be dictator. If this were Europe, we would just be a few “Jewish-run banks,” references away from a textbook campaign of fascism.

What would four years of poisoning our national discourse with violent chauvinism, xenophobia, divisiveness, and suspicion do to us as a country? Once we start normalizing molesting women, scapegoating Mexican-Americans, and excluding Muslim-Americans, where does it end? While America’s individualism is a repellent to demagoguery, we are not immune to the danger of delivering the world’s largest pedestal and levers to such an unconscionable man. Trump may not have the foresight to exploit a divided American people toward truly nefarious ends, but there are men surrounding him who would do just that.

Rwanda needed to heal societal cleaves. Instead their leaders pulled them further apart and tore their country to shreds in the process. Emerging from their own ashes, a new set of leaders chose togetherness over division and Rwanda has been ascendant ever since. As we approach an election unrivaled in the profundity of its consequences, I would remind my fellow Americans to learn from Rwanda, leadership matters.

Reflections on #africamp

This is our final blog post for our four month trip to Africa. Instead of my usual pontifications, this blog is broken down into a number of “top ten lists” in order to succinctly share the highlights; enjoy!

The 10 Best Things We Did 

Attend ASYV Debate Tournament

After being in the village for like two weeks, we joined the coaches and participants and spent a day in rapid-fire debates on the motion: The Rwandan government should significantly cut its current dependence on foreign aid. I learned a lot about the effects of foreign aid on Rwanda and the global south in general. But more importantly had an incredible day watching and coaching my team of three awesome girls who went on to win the city championship!

Akilah One-on-One meetings

The work we did at Akilah has meaningful in so many ways, and one of those ways in how it allowed us to jump on motos and meet with individuals around Kigali, whether it was worth current students, alumnae, or private sector employers who regularly hired interns and graduates from Akilah. The meetings gave Jamie and I an up-close look into the developing private sector of Rwanda and those who are building it from the ground-up.

Gorilla Trekking

Being close enough to see a fully grown silverback gorilla change its facial expression as it finishes eating one thing and considers if he wants to eat the next thing is…rad. Seriously, it was like close encounter of the best kind.

Driving the Garden Route (including Winelands)

South Africa is immersed in natural beauty and winding our way through the hills along the South and East Coast became like a 4 day drive through a series of impressionist paintings.

SAFARI!

Big Cats, Elephants, Hippos, Giraffes, Craters, Zebras, there is no better way to get lost in nature than safari in Masai Mara, Serengeti and Ngorogoro Crater.

Stonehenge

After safari, it was fitting to go from basking in the natural world to trying to pry into the minds of Neolithic men and women who used this site to…bury the dead? Observe the seasons? Pray? All of the above? Few places leave you with more questions that Stonehenge so obviously, we loved it.

Driving Tour of Capetown with Noel

Our driving tour with Noel was amazing because he showed us the sights and shared with us the stories of South Africa. Not just the ones that feel good to hear, about what a saint Mandela is or how great it was for Apartheid to be overthrown without a war. But he also told us the stories about government abuse and corruption that is severely souring the sweetness of what post-Apartheid South Africa could have looked like. For the comprehensiveness and the nuance that we learned, we will forever be grateful. 

White Water Rafting down the Nile

Jamie and I are not extreme sporters but we like to have fun. Rafting the Nile was about as far as we could go. We paddled our way through a couple of Category 5 rapids, got stuck under a 14 foot waterfall (that we rafted over) and we capsized twice…each time there was like a half second when one part of me went “huh, is this how Jamie tells everyone that I died?” But anyway, it was super-super fun and wouldn’t trade it back for anything. 

Attended Rwanda’s National Genocide Memorial at Amahoro National Stadium

While we didn’t see the Agahozo Shalom students perform, joining with Rwandans from around the country to come together to remember such a recent, painful, confusing and real trauma in ther collective psyche and individual lives was an honor. And because Rwandans are such hospitable people, we were welcomed into such a private, vulnerable moment with open arms and teary eyes. It was a moment through which I will feel connected to Rwanda for a very long time.

Spice Tour and Beach out in Zanzibar

With our volunteering and safari behind us, we took our last few days in Africa to check out Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania. While there we both went on a spice tour, where we used all five senses to learn more about how spices and herbs are planted, grow and are used culinarily, medicinally and cosmetically. We’ve done a lot of walking tours, but from this one we said, “Wait, but really?” way more than any other. Then we spent a few days to just sit on the beach at a resort and drink and eat like we were rehearsing for a Corona commercial. We stayed at the Beach Breeze Resort and I recommend it to all. We were also lucky because it was peak rainy season so prices were low, but it was still sunny and in the high eighties on most days. #winning.

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10 Teachers and What They Taught Us

  1. JC, Executive Director of Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – showed us how to hit that balance of bringing the the right people to the table with the right jobs and supporting them, but in a way that lets them do what you hired them to do, and therefore thrive.
  2. Vincent, Village Director of Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – taught us how to look at a start-up and begin building, in order to go from good to great
  3. Ritah, Alumnae Affiars Manager at Akilah Institute for Women – taught us how to love a job through building the relationships through those you serve
  4. Aline, Country Director for Akilah Institute for Women taught me about part of the psychology of Rwndans as refugees and what that means to their values and sense of self-value
  5. Noel, Tour Guide in Cape Town – taught us to look under the surface to see the stories less told in South Africa, post-Aparthied
  6. Nida, graduate of Akilah Institute for Women – taught us that where there’s a will there’s a way
  7. Francis, Tour Guide for Glory Safaris – taught us about the Maasai and how to consider the balance of thousands of years of traditions with modernity
  8. Jessica, Director of Registration and Career Development at Akilah Institute for Women – gave us a crash course in “Re-organizing the systems of your Start-up” through our work together at Akilah
  9. Maxime, graduate at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – who inspired us with his ambition, belief in hard work, and gratitude and eagerness towards opportunities and uphill battles
  10. Phyllis, fellow volunteer at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – taught us how to give without imposing, to support without commandeering, to give in the truest sense of the word

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10 Assumptions Going to East Africa Tears Down

  1. Africa is too backwards for there to be significant progress any time soon.
  2. Africa is a great place to send charity to, not business contracts.
  3. African women are comfortable accepting a life similar to that of their mothers, grandmothers and great-grandmothers
  4. The best way for African problems to be solved is to find the equivalent problem in the US or Europe and just apply the model.
  5. Travelling in Africa is not safe.
  6. Unless they are rich, Africans do not speak English.
  7. Africans do not deal with issues around ‘colorism’ since almost everyone is black.
  8. Africa just needs “time” to get better.
  9. Africans think life is cheap.
  10. Africans are a “simple” people.

The 10 Things We Will Do When We Return to Africa

  1. Climb Kilimanjaro and do some Safari Hikes and Balloon Rides
  2. Do some work with African Innovation Prize
  3. Check out the Apartheid Museum in Soweto
  4. Attend Passover or Shabbat with the Abuyadaya in Uganda
  5. Stay over for a few nights in Addis Ababa
  6. See Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe
  7. Hike up a volcano in Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo
  8. Spend more time in Capetown and the Winelands in South Africa
  9. Visit the Nyamatta Church Genocide Memorial in the Southern Province of Rwanda
  10. Hike around Namibia

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 #africampers out…for now.

Eating our way through Africa

Whenever I travel, I love to find ways to both eat and cook my way through a new city or place. Food activates all of your senses and helps create an instant connection to a new people and place.   It’s one of the best ways to learn more about a culture. And did we “learn” a lot during our months in Africa.

We tried local ingredients that we had not encountered before or are used in a way we’d never considered. (“What is a ‘tree tomato’? Are you sure a tomato will taste good in my fruit salad?”)

We used cooking equipment and techniques that provided a lens into a way of life that has stayed authentically earnest and draws connections to those who have cooked these same dishes for generations before us. (“Did you know that in the U.S., we have a special knife designed especially for cutting tomatoes and a tool that cuts avocadoes into slices in one fell swoop?”)

RWANDA & EAST AFRICA

We spent most of #Africamp living in Rwanda, with a few side trips to other countries in East Africa (rafting in Uganda, safari in Kenya & Tanzania, rest and relaxation in Zanzibar). We were lucky to experience both rural life during our time at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village (aka “the Village”) AND city life during our month living in Kigali. We shopped at the local markets, ate at local bars and sought out hidden street food stands (imagine, a tiny hut with plates full of freshly fried treats), ordered goodies at the local store, and enjoyed every simply tantalizing moment.

Ibirahi

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Delicious Ibirahi at a village bar

This is the ultimate street food. If ibirahi (slang for ibiraha samosas – irish potato samosas) were served out of a food truck in New York, they’d be an instant hit! Cheap, simple, fried goodness. It’s the perfect post-bar snack that will absorb your night of drinks, so you can wake up feeling bright-eyed and bushy-tailed tomorrow morning. Can you say East Village money-maker?? Open call for anyone who wants to go into the food truck business with me. Just saying. We’ll also sell Brochette (see below), so I just don’t see how this DOESN’T kick ass.

Brochette

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Brochettes at the Milles Coline (aka Hotel Rwanda) poolside Brunch

Meat on a stick. It’s simple. It’s genius. It is marinated in the perfect blend of spices that makes sure it hits the spot every time. You may be thinking, isn’t this just like shish kabob or a skewer of meat? Maybe. But, nothing will make your eyes light up and mouth salivate quite the same way as a plate of goat brochette served at the bar with a Primus (local beer), especially when you’ve been waiting for two hours since it seems they’ve freshly killed the goat out back to make these delectable meat sticks just for you. It can also be made of beef, chicken, or fish. But, to me, goat is the ultimate Rwandan way.

Chapati

There are so few ingredients; I’m not even totally sure how chapati tastes so good. I’m pretty sure we’re talking flour, eggs, salt, and green onion. It’s very similar to Indian naan. But, it’s better. Some of our favorite moments at the Village would happen when we were walking by the lower gate and spot Betty (owner of the small shop across the way), yell through the gate and across the street to find out if she had chapati…and she said yes. Score Jamie and Andrew!

(**Rolex: Chapati with a thin layer of egg with green onions (cooked on a hot plate like those used to make crepes) placed on it and then rolled up. It’s only sold in Uganda and this made us extremely sad. It was awesome!)

Nyama Choma

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My plate at Carnivore…worth the angioplasty.

MEAT! Barbecued (i.e. grilled) meat. Note, I never met a Rwandan vegetarian. In Kenya, we had the ultimate Nyama Choma experience at a restaurant aptly named Carnivore. Think Brazilian Churascuria (a la Fogo de Chao) but African style. Ostrich, goat, lamb, chicken, beef…and all of it in my tummy.

Akabanga

It’s just Rwandan chili oil in a small dropper-style bottle. But, it packs a HUGE punch. A lot of the Rwandan dishes are fairly simple and often consist of rice, beans or potatoes – a fairly bland bunch. Now imagine meals in the Village as a pretty consistent rotation of those aforementioned staples – a few drops (emphasis on a FEW) becomes a game changer and added necessary flavor profiles to our meals over these past months. Whenever we’d pull out our Akabanga at the table, someone else would spot it and work up the courage to ask for some. Of course, we were happy to share. It cost like 50 cents and we never even finished one bottle in all of our months.

SOUTH AFRICA

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Food and Drink at the Stellenbosch Wine Festival

The start of our trip in South Africa was full of beautiful sights and sounds, but some of my favorite, delectable tastes of our whole time in Africa.

Wine

South Africa’s winelands are a must for any visitor heading to the Cape Town/Western Cape area.  For this trip, we even put some of my old Cornell Hotel School connections use and emailed the Wines professor for some suggestions.  They did not disappoint!  Not only are is wine country picturesque, but the food scene is strong with farm-to-table style spots bursting on along the quaint tree-lined Cape Dutch streets of Stellenbosch, the veritable heart of the winelands.  We hit the jackpot on our visit with the annual Stellenbosch Wine Festival hitting town at the exact time we were there.  So, instead of driving around to a handful of vineyards for tastings, they all came to us.  One low price, two wine glasses, unlimited tastes from over 100 wineries!  TOTAL BLISS.

Biltong

I now understand that beef (or meat) jerky is just a poor attempt at biltong. In South Africa, there is a magical way of drying, curing, and aging meats (beef and a whole slew of other animals that I’d never heard of before we ate our way through them, like Eland, Kudu, and others) that creates one of the best snacking experiences I’ve ever enjoyed to date. It’s more moist, flavorful, elegant and freaking fantastic. A bag of biltong carried us through a six-hour car ride along the Garden Route. I am sad that I didn’t accept the offer of freeze-dried, packaged biltong at the Cape Town market. I have already started researching South African biltong suppliers in New York City.

West Coast (of Africa) Oysters

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Scrumptious Oysters at Clarke’s

Oyster happy hours are my jam in New York. But, oyster happy hour in Cape Town blew them all away. At Clarke’s, I ate my first African West Coast oysters and I entered a whole new world of meaty, sweet, subtly briney oysters that were, in my opinion, perfect in every way.

Safari, So Good!

“Still, we often talked on the farm of the Safaris that we had been on. Camping places fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember a curve of your wagon track in the grass of the plain, like the features of a friend.”

-Karen Blixen, “Out of Africa”

Trying to describe a safari in words is like describing a Bruce Springsteen concert by smell; it is bound to miss the point. So instead, this will be a “photo blog” with links to our 700 odd photos, organized into four categorical Google Photo albums.

But before I get there, a quick word of praise to Glory Safaris and Expeditions. Our tour guides were outstanding, knowledgeable, resourceful and oriented us to a foreign, enticing and inviting world. 

The Big Five 
(Click title above to see full album)

Lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and water buffalo have the honor of being included in the “Big Five” since they are difficult to hunt (at least before rifles) and were of great monetary worth (buffalo for meat, lions and leopards for paws and fur, elephants for tusks, and rhinos for their horn). Of the Big Five, the leopard is the most beautiful and the rhino is the hardest to spot. However, I assure you that to observe a lion that walks close enough to take you with one pounce is unmatchable.

Strange Beauties
(Click title above to see full album)

While these guys are not to be found in the Big Five, they are beautiful beasts that catch your eye and refuse to let go. In particular, the peculiar grace of a giraffe galloping at full speed is hypnotizing; while it can stride at over 30 miles per hour, it still looks like slow motion. Also included in this album are zebras, gazelle and impalas, agama lizards, jackals, and a saber cat.)

Homely Homies
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Despite all the beauty in nature, there’s also a lot of ugliness, specifically these animals that make up the “Ugly 6,” the vultures, hippos, wildebeests, hyenas, crocodiles and warthogs. Jamie and I disagree on the truly ugliest one of the bunch: I think it’s the wildebeest, which looks like the worst possible aesthetic combination of mules, buffalo, and a Haredi rabbi. Jamie thinks it’s the crocodile, which may be an ugly animal, but I think the croc is just a handsome dinosaur.

Feathers, Petals, People and Rocks
(Click title above to see full album)

While the animals are the main draw, there is much to be said for the non-mammals and reptiles of Africa. The birds, whether flamingos or eagles, are colored wildly and are endowed with eyes as focused as a razor’s edge. The geology of the Great Rift Valley and Ngorogoro Crater are as breathtaking as the vastness of the Serengeti (which is Swahili for “never ending plain). Within these rock formations, the flora brush hues of all colors to and over the horizon. A friend told me that while on safari, he was compelled to tears by the sheer beauty before his eyes, a first in his life. While Jamie and I didn’t shed tears, we share in the awe of such grandiosity.

And of course, the people who inhabit this particular piece of the world impacted us too; they are ancient, pastoral, and close to the land they have been cultivating for thousands of years. We spent significant time with members of the Maasai community, learning about the traditions of the famed lion hunting warriors, and how they today balance traditions like polygamy with modern expectations and norms throughout Kenya and Tanzania.

Lastly, my and Jamie’s Safari spirit animals, as decided for each of us by one another.

Jamie is a hyena: ruthlessly efficient, tenacious team-worker and never wanting for food. I on the other hand am an elephant: a mix of assertiveness and a penchant for introversion, comfort in moving with a herd, but also wanting time to be separate from the group.

 

Afripreneurs and Lionesses

“If the Asian Tiger was the economic success story of the last decades of the 20th century, the African Lion is going to be the success story of the twenty-first.” –Ashish J. Thakkar, Founder, Mara Group and Africa’s first billionaire 

“Women Hold Half the Sky.” –Mao Zedong

To explain the timing of our #africamp adventure: In December, Jamie left her long and celebrated tenure at Camp Tel Yehudah and I completed my MBA at Baruch College. It was with a new education, interest and curiosity towards private sector solutions that I arrived to Africa, and my expectations for seeing those solutions in action were met and easily exceeded.

Foreign aid conversations produce endless eye-rolls and shrugs. Our ethos dictates to give to the less fortunate; but the results of our foreign aid produce a mixed picture at best, and a failure at worst. But this is not just a foreign aid challenge, it is a general philanthropy problem. Improving “monitoring and evaluation” is an organizational hot topic in the non-profit world to compensate for the philanthropic sector’s lack of access to the best monitoring and evaluation tool: the market.

As Jacqueline Novogratz, states in The Blue Sweater, “Philanthropy alone lacks the feedback mechanisms of markets, which are the best listening devices we have.”

Businesses serve and rely on their customers. If a company cannot provide satisfactory services for a reasonable price, the customer finds it somewhere else and the company dies a natural death. However, many non-profits serve an audience but rely on a different group: funders. This bifurcation often creates “zombie” organizations that do not effectively serve their audience, but still limp along because funders artificially keep them alive, often because public fawning and praise for one’s generosity is as addictive as any drug.

This has proven to be an insurmountable challenge for much of the non-profit world.

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Jamie leads a skill-building workshop on communication at Akilah.

The Global South, and Africa in particular, understands the depth of this flaw. Around a trillion dollars of charity and foreign aid have arrived to the continent since the 1950’s and the impact of all that money is… not much. Foreign aid’s most notable, and regrettable, impact has been letting cruel and incompetent dictatorships off the hook by building the country’s infrastructure for them, allowing them to pilfer national reserves. I suggest John Kerry take a page from Josh Ruxin’s book, Thousand Hills to Heaven, “the most corrupt fifteen percent of nations – twenty-five countries, more or less, should be on the foreign aid black list, except…for dire emergencies.”

Just as important, the mindset of Westerners building Africa on behalf of Africans promotes a narrative that they are unable to do it themselves; a particularly dangerous form of racism masked by noble intentions.

My time here has taught me that Africans do not need, or want, Westerners to come build the continent for them. Rwanda’s government has made cultivating local business and attracting foreign investments a top priority. Officially registering a business is not only easy, but something that can be done in six hours. President Kagame has created a culture of accountability and service within the government, setting apart Rwanda from her neighbors. Philanthropies are noticing, and more enlightened ones have figured out not to lecture Rwandans, but listen first and then support.

We had several points of contact with the African Innovation Prize, which helps schools and organizations run business plan competitions, offering educational support for contestants and one-on-one mentorship for contest winners as they get their business started. Their model involves bringing in Western MBAs and business practitioners to mentor contestant winners three months. If Jamie and I don’t find work that we like in New York, you can expect us back here in that capacity.

What’s even more encouraging is that women are leading the way and the men increasingly not only realize it, but embrace it. Rwanda’s First Lady hosts a national “Miss Geek Competition,” challenging female Rwandan students to submit concepts to improve Rwanda’s standard of living through tech-based solutions. One of the students I advised at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village, Jermaine, submitted a concept to create a text message based national emergency response system. Another student, Ornella, wants to create an app that gives women access to information, both from professionals and crowd-sourced, on how to protect their reproductive health. One of my projects at Agahozo Shalom was advising on how to start a business plan competition for students, which we want to call “Start-up Rwanda” and will augment and showcase students’ creativity, problem-solving and initiative, the foundational elements of entrepreneurship.

Last week Jamie and I saw the enterprising skills of Rwandan women at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center, which runs a grassroots community tourism service with cooking classes, walking tours, and hand-made merchandise. They take “women’s work” and redefine it to make women financially independently.

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Learning how to cook at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center with Aminatha!

Jamie and I spent April consulting at the Akilah Institute for Women, which provides degrees to East African women in hospitality management, information technology management, and entrepreneurship. Jamie has developed a series of professional skill-building workshops; I worked with staff and alumnae to launch an alumnae association. The undertaking of Akilah is incredible, as are the women, who dedicate themselves to gaining the skills to provide for themselves, their family and communities. These young women come from across East Africa and epitomize how this generation is cutting against the historical grain, which dictated that men earn money while women stay home.

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Selfie with Nida, Inaugural President of the Akilah Alumnae Association.

None of these women is more impressive than Nida Giselle Iraguha, who graduated in 2015, got a job at Hotel Milles Collines (AKA The Hotel Rwanda) and was quickly offered a managerial position at the Kigali Convention Center (opening soon!). Nida is also the inaugural President of the Akilah Alumnae Association and has the kind of intelligence, charisma, and curiosity to galvanize her peers to move mountains. What is exciting is that soon Nida will be the expectation, not the exception, among Rwandan women.

Jamie and I are honored and inspired to witness and contribute in our own small way to Africa’s 21st century remedy to its 20th century ailments.

 

Signs and Wonders in South Africa

Passover has arrived, and with it the commandment to retell the story of our inspired and painful passage from oppression to freedom, and the “signs and wonders” (Exodus 7:3) that produced it. I find my mind keeps bringing me back to my and Jamie’s 10 days in South Africa, a land of signs and wonders; South Africa is blessed and cursed with beauty and pain interwoven into the fabric of every day life.

South Africa’s natural beauty is stunning. Jamie and I drove from Cape Town to Wine Country and then along the Garden Route to Knysna, and then back to Cape Town to hop on a train to Pretoria. South Africa is a continent unto itself, with scenery that switches seamlessly between, lush green hills, brown-orange dessert, majestic mountains, dense jungles, rivers that winding through canyons, and vast farmlands. From the clouds dramatically spill over Table Mountain to the intersection of the Indian Ocean, Atlantic Ocean and Antarctic at the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa is a biological, ecological and meteorological laboratory, bubbling and oozing new possibilities.

The line between man’s realm and the animal kingdom is blurry. At the beach you can walk alongside penguins and watch whales splash around. Driving inland, we hit a traffic jam because an ostrich was standing in the middle of the road, inspecting every car that went by. Whether it was ostriches, baboons, tortoises or other animals, our guide, Noel, would say, “Yeah, they walk around like they own the roads.”

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Ostrich Road Block at the Cape of Good Hope.

South Africa also looks different than everywhere else; most of the plant-life i is exclusive to South Africa’s biosphere. This botanical distinctiveness gives South Africa myriad agricultural and horticultural idiosyncrasies, from its flowers to its wines and meats, much of which Jamie and I indulged on non-stop (especially biltong, which is like jerky, but way, way better). South Africa’s natural gifts impart the country with incredible hiking, sightseeing, food, wine and general marveling.

These wonders are the backdrop of man’s struggle, and our guide, Noel, offered a glimpse into its signs. Noel is colored, a racial designation of mixed lineage; if Barack Obama were South African he’d also be colored. The colored community has a unique perspective on the transition from Apartheid, which protected White economic interests at the expense of blacks and coloreds, and the current regime, which often uses reverse discrimination to compensate blacks for Apartheid. Unfortunately, the colored community is small and while they are not suffering as they did under Apartheid, their interests are not guarded with the anything near the vigilance as for blacks.

He showed us how morally murky and economically perilous the government’s choices are. Noel is an excellent, highly competent tour guide, yet struggles to secure work consistently since most jobs are designated for blacks, not colored or white people; this type of affirmative action is widespread and has high political expedience, but ultimately it prevents South Africa’s best and brightest from uplifting themselves and South Africa. While he explained this to us, he drove us to a Township outside of Cape Town. While the Township looked like a shantytown for hundreds of thousands of poor souls, Noel warned us to look upon the township with skepticism, not pity. He told is that on the outside they look like tin cans, but pointed out that almost every home had a satellite dish. He told us if we ever walked into one of those tin shacks, we would see they generally are far more luxurious than their exterior would indicate. I regret that I never got to see the inside of a home and confirm or dispute Noel.

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Noel, our excellent tour guide, with us at a winery outside of Cape Town.

He also overturned our assumption that those who lived in townships were stuck there, forced by their poverty to live in these impromptu ghettos. He explained, “The government’s policy is that any black person who shows up to a piece of vacant land and builds a tin-house becomes entitled to that house and land. If the government knocks it down, it has to build a permanent structure for them. So people build these tin shacks and then eventually the government obliges them 5 years later by knocking it down and building them a nice home for free. I wouldn’t mind, but they steal the electricity from nearby lines (why we have power outages all the time) and these people aren’t from Cape Town. So many come from the East Coast and while they live here for free are renting their homes in Durban or Soweto. They are really turning a nice profit for themselves at everyone’s expense.”

Jobs and housing are foundations of society, and while the evils of Apartheid are gone, the incompetence of dysfunctional democracy poses incredible dangers to South Africa. Over the past year the value of the Rand fell by 60% against the dollar, and while everyone knows the President, Jacob Zuma, is corrupt, no one expects to see him leave his post. That type of resignation to government failure is dangerous to a country and I only hope that South Africans reclaim their national aspirations. While we were in Pretoria, protests raged against Jacob Zuma in anticipation of his “State of the Nation,” address, demanding he resign; God’s Speed to the protester.

But hope endures in a country that produced Nelson Mandela. South Africans of all races speak of Mandela like Americans speak of Lincoln, and Jews speak of Moses. His wisdom and incorruptibility stands as a voice of conscious for the country. He brought his people out of oppression and led them towards the Promised Land. And while many South Africans are discouraged by the country’s politics, they should take heart in the Exodus story. After overturning Pharaoh, the Hebrews needed forty years of wandering in the dessert before they could enter the Land of Israel. Apartheid was a 20th century Mitzrayim. South Africans will decide whether to remain in the dessert or continue their long walk to freedom, transforming their country into a 21st century land of milk and honey.

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Click the photo of “Nobel Square” in Cape Town to see our Paris and South Africa Google Photo Album!

These Start-up Exile Nations

After comparing the Holocaust and Rwanda’s Genocide commemoration, another powerful parallel emerges: the role of refugees. Today, you’d never know that less than twenty years ago, nearly 40% of Rwandans had been refugees or the children of refugees. Between 1959-1994, seven hundred and fifty thousand Tutsis were chased across Rwanda’s borders by government-sponsored pogroms. Immediately following the 1994 genocide, two MILLION Hutus fled to neighboring Zaire (now Democratic Republic of Congo) for fear of Tutsi retaliation. But by 1998, almost all refugees, Tutsi and Hutu alike, had returned to the land of their forefathers.

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United Nations map of Rwandan Refugee Population Centers, circa December 1994.

Nothing about Rwanda seems like a nation of strangers. On the contrary, Jamie and I have been struck by how ubiquitous the combination of altruism and patriotism is here and the sincerity with which so many Rwandans seek meaning through building Rwanda. And the quantum leap this country has made over the last twenty years is a personal point of pride of every Rwandan we meet. Rwanda in 1994 showed the horror of what a mob can commit, Rwanda in 2016 shows the potential of what a community can accomplish.

Jews who know their history understand the transformation from exile to prosperity. David’s Kingdom and Solomon’s Temple were built on 440 years of slaves and wanderers’ dreams. In the 20th Century, millions of Jews made homeless and nationless by the Holocaust and freshly minted Arab autocracies came to Israel to build a home that would be everything their last residences were not. History will ultimately judge their success, but there is much to celebrate.

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Jewish refugees from Arab countries prepare for life in the new State of Israel, courtesy of the Henry Jackson Society.

There are myriad reasons why Israel quickly ascended from nascent state to a military, educational, technological and cultural force and there are as many reasons that Rwanda is in the midst of an historic trajectory towards a 21st century African success. But their success’ secret sauce may be how both countries’ allowed their refugees to catalyze progress.

How does a gathering of refugees, the supposed wretched of the Earth, spark success? From conversations I have had with Rwandan and Israeli friends, co-workers and educators who were refugees or well studied on refugees, I have very unscientifically observed three indicative adaptations many (certainly not all) refugees use towards self-preservation: striving, community facing, and self-supporting.

Refugees are made to feel less than their neighbors, who are citizen while they are aliens. Citizens feel shame or pride for their country, but refugees cannot feel either, deprived of the dignity of belonging. Instead they inherit a humiliating sense of inferiority that only subsides after a life of proving one’s worth.

A standard modus operandi for governments hosting refugees includes neglecting to provide basic services and to actively block refugees from educational and employment advancement opportunities. Therefore, most refugees learn quickly that all they have is each other. This heavy interdependence breeds deep fidelity to the community and builds a dense network of connectivity. In other words, networking is not a professional tactic; it’s a survival strategy.

Even counting on the strength of their community normally does not give refugees much control their own destiny. They cannot get a legitimate job, grow food, or dig a well since the country’s opportunities and natural resources are not meant for them. They are forced to subsist on the charity of others, which quickly metastasizes into a culture of dependence, which changes charity into poison. Consequently, once they reclaim self-reliance, refugees are loath to ever concede it again.

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Inauguration of the Center of Excellence for Horticultural Development in Rwanda, courtesy the Foreign Ministry of Israel.

The constant striving to prove self-worth, the thick connectivity among community members, and the deep desire for true autonomy drove forward Israel and Rwanda. There is something distinctively familiar floating in the air here in Rwanda, a “chalutzic” gust that blows through both the Judean hills and this “Land of a Thousand Hills.” The chalutzim were early Jewish pioneers who toiled to build Israel’s foundations, reinvigorating local agriculture, founding the first modern Hebrew city, Tel Aviv, and even resurrecting the spoken language of Hebrew. They placed their lives in service of rebuilding their country from almost nothing.They would fit in very well in Rwanda.

The government is remarkably focused on lifting Rwanda out of poverty. Shopkeepers, cab drivers, entrepreneurs and high school students all have an opinion on how to reduce Rwanda’s dependency on foreign aid. Teens profess their dreams, not to be millionaires, but to start businesses that create jobs. On the first Saturday of every month, all Rwandans are expected to join members of their neighborhood or village to do public works, from planting trees to sweeping the streets. I have spent the last two weeks working with local women to help to launch the Akilah Women’s Institute Alumnae Association. The young women I speak to are nearly unanimous that the association’s goal should not be focused on helping alumnae, but on organizing alumnae to serve Rwandan women at large.

An ancient motif is that great leaders must go forth into the wilderness before leading their people. Moses sojourned to Midian before taking Israel out of Egypt. Jesus fasted in the desert before his final passion. Mahatma Gandhi practiced law in South Africa before taking up the banner of Indian independence. Nelson Mandela sat like Buddha in a prison cell for twenty-seven years before ending Apartheid.

But what about when a people, not a person, treks through the wilderness? Today’s zeitgeist dictates that they become a smoldering oven of hatred and violence. In Jordan, Serbia, Pakistan, Chad, etc. we have seen refugee centers turned into petri dishes of extremism. But Israel and Rwanda bare witness to what can be accomplished through ingathering the dispersed. These start-up exile nations are instructive to dealing with a swelling global refugee crisis. All in highly different circumstances, these three countries show how to unleash people’s drive, creativity and compassion by giving them the opportunity to work towards success. In doing so, the nationless of today can be the remedy to, not a source of, global woes. Someone ought to remind Donald Trump that America’s success and vitality comes from a similar recipe.

Kwibuka and Yizkor: In the Shadow of Two Genocides

“‘And this also,’ said Marlow suddenly, ‘has been one of the dark places of the earth.'”

Joseph Conrad, Heart of Darkness

“Some days circle and circle, some days soar above like kites, some days like hyenas wait for the story to die.”

Juliane Okot Bitek, 100 Days

Twenty-two years after Rwanda plummeted into one hundred days of madness, the week of Kwibuka (Kinyarwanda for remember) for the Tutsi Genocide has drawn to a close. There is both so little and so much to say about an entire nation submerging in blood and its worldwide complicity, whether through choosing blissful ignorance (United States and UK), using bureaucracy to mask cowardice (United Nations) or even covertly supporting it (France).

In Rwanda and in Israel, I have stood along survivors of genocide in a country whose collective narrative is inseparable from that genocide. The parallels are painfully apparent between these two genocides:

A despotic government manipulates animosity against a small minority it portrays as alien, privileged, scheming, and constantly exploiting the true citizens. That animosity, cultivated in poverty, metastasized into open hostility through fear and a dominant culture of conformity. And then the final catalyst needed to mutate hostility into mass murder: war. Citizens become targets to their own neighbors and friends; seemingly overnight, everyone was either assigned as predator or prey.

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Rwandans mourn and comfort each other at Kwibuka 22 commemoration event in Kigali.

As slaughter raged, the world turned a blind eye, unable to countenance such mayhem, nor willing to take responsibility to stop it. The United States, Europe and neighboring countries idly looked the other way. In this modern incarnation of Cain and Abel, the Catholic Church provided no refuge for Abel and local clergy even joined Cain. Eventually the madness subsided with invading soldiers restoring order but as emaciated and dazed survivors emerged, the staggering human and psychological toll had already been paid.

The broad strokes of 1945 and 1994 are hauntingly familiar, but the distinctions are clear. Of the many differences, I focus on four.

Banality vs. Bloodlust of Evil

Nazis and Hutu extremists took opposite approaches to dehumanize their victims. The Third Reich reduced victims into numbers and mass murder into a sterilized bureaucracy. The S.S. shuttled Jews, Gypsies and others to remote camps to give Germans and collaborators psychological space and let people feel the genocide was outside their realm. This was the unspoken pact between perpetrators and bystanders: kill millions and pretend it’s not happening.

Not the case in Rwanda. Killers reveled in the orgy of blood. The planners’ strategy was to nullify the criminality of genocide by casting guilt on everyone. Instead of using bureaucracy as an anesthetic for the murderers, the genocidaires celebrated murder as an act of community consecration. The Interahamwe (local death squads) conscribed every Hutu man to kill Tutsis or provide material support to the effort. Consequently, Tutsis were chased and called out by name by their neighbors, friends, and even family.

Genocide as Ends or Genocide as Means

One of the Holocaust’s great paradoxes was the extreme operational rationality used to achieve an irrational aim. Hitler’s ultimate aspiration for “Greater Germany” was undermined by the Holocaust since it diverted significant resources from battlefields to concentration camps, with no resulting benefit.

Not the case in Rwanda. Killing Tutsis was not a goal, but the chosen method of a corrupt, hateful cadre of politicians and generals to retain power. Hutu extremists saw the sun setting on their reign and to prevent its end, they incentivized poor Hutus to kill their Tutsi neighbors and claim their possessions. Many genocidaires have admitted that they spent as much time looting as killing. These leaders believed the genocide would go unpunished and would eliminate the prospect of any future power-sharing agreement. The genocide may have looked like an eruption of passion, but it was planned along cool political calculus.

Tel Aviv isn’t in Treblinka

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Jamie and I visited the site of a mass grave for genocide victims, which sits about a quarter mile from our house.

The most salient distinction resides in the nature of the recovery process. Holocaust survivors left Europe for Israel and the US to start over and Nazis have rightly become synonymous with evil. Physical and moral distance from one’s oppressor bolsters the psychological rehabilitation.

Not the case in Rwanda. The moral distance is compressed and there is zero physical distance. While Jews ask, “How could we suffer this?” Rwandans ask, “How could we suffer and perpetrate this?” Tremendous effort has been invested into reconciling survivors and perpetrators, but there is no precedent for two sides of a genocide living together afterwards. While thousands have been imprisoned for their involvement, justice is a relative, and tortured term. Rwanda turns “No Justice, No Peace!” on its head. Justice and peace have become conflicting values. If justice were truly served then all perpetrators would be imprisoned. But then Rwanda would sink even deeper into poverty, ushering in starvation, crime, hopelessness, war, and that’s right: another genocide.

Thousands of confessed perpetrators were freed, returning to their homes and working next to their former prey. How are the widowed and orphaned survivors supposed to find justice in a world where their former murderers have been reunited with their family and fields? In Rwanda, survivors have been asked to concede personal justice in the interest of national peace.

Sirens and Hands

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Phyllis holds hands with Rwandans during a moment of remembrance as a community.

Kwibuka Week crescendos at Amahoro National Stadium during a nationally televised ceremony. At the culminating moment, tens of thousands in attendance stand and hold hands. On Israel’s Yom HaShoah (Holocaust Remembrance Day), sirens blare across the country and the nation stands at attention. The difference between holding hands and listening to a siren is telling: sirens remind Israel to be vigilant against outside oppressors; holding hands reminds Rwanda that our touch has the power to destroy and the power to protect each other. Both bare witness to the nadir of their people and call on us to confront evil wherever we see it. May we all raise our consciousness, empathy and care towards those who are suffering, from Burundi to Syria.

To learn more about the 1994 Rwandan Genocide, I recommend Phillip Gourevitch’s “We Wish to Inform you that Tomorrow We will be Killed with our Families,” Steven Kinzer’s “A Thousand Hills” and Jean Hatzfield’s literary trilogy “Life Laid Bare,” “Machete Season,” and “The Antelope’s Strategy.”

Faces of ASYV

It is hard to describe the experience of living and becoming a part of the Agahozo Shalom community.  We have been touched and overwhelmed by how genuinely we were welcomed in as soon as we stepped foot through the ASYV gates.  Whether it was a wave and friendly smile, a passing “Hello” or “Good Morning”, an invitation to join a table for lunch, an out-of-the-blue onslaught of serious and complex questions about politics and the future of the U.S. (do Americans really like Donald Trump?), a request for help with an essay or speech, a willingness to just chat about life and open up about hopes and dreams, participating in our English classes, an out-of-the-way handshake, or the many many more connections and interactions of all shapes and sizes — this place and everyone in it has left a permanent impression on us and we will carry the relationships and memories with us for the rest of our lives.

To really understand what Agahozo Shalom Youth Village is really all about, you have to understand the people who live there.  We could probably spend days or weeks regaling you with detail upon detail about each person we met, everything we did day in and day out at the Village, and the experiences (expected and not) that we’ve shared together.  Instead, we hope you’ll enjoy an insight into the lives and personalities of a few amazing friends we met along the way, so you can begin to understand why we are brimming with inspiration, hope and love and how these people and this place have truly nourished our souls.

These are the faces of Agahozo Shalom.

BERTIN

Age: 18
From: Southern Province, Ruhango Districat, Kinazi Sector
Grade: Ishema (S6)
ASYV Family: Martin Luther King Jr.
Goal: I want to be and independent person, open my own business to make and sell art
Role Model: Vincent Van Gogh, he was an artist and he tried to use his art to change the lives of people around him
Hobbies: Art, basketball with friends, and writing sketches and theater

We met Bertin one afternoon while we were helping out with an S6 TOEFL study session in the dining hall. Since it is a large, open space, most days you can find a large number of students in the dining hall in formal study groups or just studying individually around the room. After TOEFL concluded, Auntie Phyllis (another adult volunteer here for the first term only), called us over where she was sitting at her laptop with a student, Bertin. Read More…

BONFILS

Age: 20
From: Kigali
Grade: Ingenzi (graduated Jan. 2016)
ASYV Family: Steve Jobs
Goal: If I am going to study (economics and finance), I need to be financially sound in order to afford school. When my mother died, my father didn’t get remarried – he just focused on me, lived with me, did everything to give me what I needed. I feel like I owe him something. So, to deliver that, there is a lot that I should do… I must work very hard. Seize every opportunity.
Favorite Quote: Every morning when I woke up, my dad would polish my shoes and tell me, “I’m doing this for you that you should be able to do it for your kids.”  He would also say, “There are two things in you – a good dog and a bad dog. It is you who will choose which dog you are going to be.”
Hobbies: Going outside at night and watching the stars. I also love talking to people – I never had a lot of people around me when I grew up, so now I love enjoying the company of other people.

Bonfils and Maxime immediately impressed us with their eloquent English, interest and ability to articulate serious and complicated ideas, and giving off a general air of optimism about their impending future. Read More…

CLAUDINE

Age: 22
From: Western Province, Rusizi District
Grade: Ingenzi (graduated Jan. 2016)
ASYV Family: Dr. David Livingston
Goals: Continue to study at university in Cameroon (she received a scholarship to University of La Roche beginning in August 2016), study business and eventually run my own business like my sister in Uganda who runs her own supermarket.
Favorite Quote: “Try and fail, but never fail to try.” It has been my favorite quote since S1.
Hobbies: Poetry, conversations with people and debating

We were told to look for someone with an “ASYV” sign when we landed at Kigali International Airport. We exited the arrivals hall and immediately spotted Issa, ASYV’s Director of Operations standing next to a girl holding, as promised, a sign with the letters “ASYV”. Read More…

FAUSTIN

Age: 19
From: Western Province, Rubavu District
Grade: Imena (S4)
ASYV Family: Alexander the Great
Goal: Create my own job editing videos and photographs…or maybe become a professor of linguistics, since I like teaching and conversing with many people who are different from me.
Favorite Quote: “You reap what you sow” – The Bible and “If you manage your time, you can create success.” I combine these two to create my own philosophy for life.
Hobbies: Taking photos at the village, since I don’t have a camera at home. So at the village I spend my free time taking photos and videos and editing them at the media center. I also like playing football and talking to people, especially about how we can make our country happy and proud and discussing the problems we face and how we can solve them.

Some of the warmest people you will ever meet are not those who jump out to you to shake your hand when you walk into a room. Faustin is unassuming but has a quiet kindness and warmth that quickly turns into a lively conversationalist. Read More…

JEAN DE DIEU (AKA “JADO”)

Age: 19
From: Southern Province, Butare
Grade: Isonga (EY)
ASYV Family: Wright Brothers
Goal: To be a producer for audio songs and video editing – I think that’s the first thing I’ll do after I leave here.
Role Model: Frank, a graduate and intern, who works with the Media department and Jimmy, another graduate and intern, who teaches music. They are both active and creative and always looking for ways to help their brothers. They look at us like real brothers and show us real love.
Hobbies: Photography, videography and audio recording. “I used to produce my own music at home, mostly hip hop, R&B, and pop” – he found artists to come into the studio and then would edit it all together.

Jado is one of those people when you make eye contact with him from across the room, he flashes you a big smile and you can’t help but return it with one of your own. A true jack-of-all trades, Jado is involved with the traditional dance club, does photography, videography and plays guitar! Read More…

MARTINE

Age: 16
From: Kigali
Grade: Isonga (EY)
ASYV Family: Margaret Ekpo
Goal: She wants to finish her studies and eventually be a business leader and show that women can also be leaders in business in Africa
Favorite Quote: I don’t have to change my personality for the sake of others – Malcolm X
Hobbies: She loves singing, Celine Dion is her favorite singer and she enjoys playing basketball and spending time with friends

Our first full week helping with English enrichment classes was spent going through a variety of exercises and games to help the students get a better grasp on those pesky English prepositions. Many a class was spent holding out a pen, a book, or our hands to try to clearly show items that were over, under, next to, and in front of (among others) other objects in the class. Read More…

MODESTE

Age: 18
From: Kigali
Grade: Icyizere (S5)
ASYV Family: James Watt
Goal: “To be a business lawyer, yeah definitely.” To continue studies at university to learn and practice business law, since it will enable me to start my own business to help my community.
Favorite Quote: “When you dream, dream big.” and “Nothing can move forward until it starts.”
Hobbies: Poetry, reading, debate and theater

We met Modeste on our first evening in the Village. We arrived on a Friday just in time for Village Time (a weekly gathering of the whole ASYV community in the amphitheater for a variety of awesome performances by the students). We were thrown right into the mix by being escorted to the special “VIP” seats in the front row and being introduced publicly to the audience by the Executive Director. Read More…

MOSES

Age:15
From: Kigali
Grade: Isonga (EY)
ASYV Family: Isaac Newton
Goal: To be a pilot/aviator, it’s a low probability I’m still going to work towards it; if not an aviator, an engineer
Favorite Quote: “Genius is Patience” – Isaac Newton
Hobbies: Playing piano, football and volleyball, his favorite football team is Real Madrid and his favorite player is Christian Ronaldo

At our first breakfast at the Village after Mucaka-Mucaka (see description under Nadia), Moses approached and sat with us at the table. He introduced himself, asked who we were, why we came to the Village, what we thought about ASYV so far (less than 24 hours in, we didn’t quite have an answer for him, though we promised to revisit the question one week later), and then he did his best to explain and introduce us to different aspects of the Village so we could start wrapping our heads around life at Agahozo. Read More…

NADIA

Age: 17
From: Northern Province, Musanza District, Muhoza Sector
Grade: Isonga (EY)
ASYV Family: Saint Annibale
Goal: I want to go into tourism, be a tour guide in National Parks, I like English and talking to people
Role Model: St Annibale because he was a very good man who helped people without parents and no money to live
Hobbies: playing basketball, enjoying the company of friends and giving advice and helping others with their problems.

Every Saturday morning, the students of each grade participate in Mucaka-Mucaka (moo-CHAK-ah moo-CHAK-ah). Students gather at their grade’s designated meeting spot in the Village at 5:45am (yes, you read that correctly) and begin to run together as a group out of the Village and to one of the nearby towns, Rubona or Bicumbi, with each grade heading to different end points in town. Read More…

ORNELLA

Age: 18
From: Kigali
Grade: Ishema (S6)
ASYV Family: Eleanor Roosevelt
Goal: I want to study marketing and interior design and eventually do interior design professionally
Favorite Quote: “Don’t fear the space between your dreams and reality” – she doesn’t remember where she heard it but it means a lot to her
Hobbies: Her two favorite things to do during her free time are watching TED Talks and listening to reggae

Keep your eye on Ornella, because she’s doing big things. Whether she is leading the ASYV student-run production and performance company “Oregon Productions”, winning Debate Championships in Kigali, developing concepts to improve Women’s health through tech-based solutions, or working on her interior design and marketing skills, she’s on the way up. Read More…

OSCAR

Age: 21
From: Kigali
Grade: Icyizere (S5)
ASYV Family: Nelson Mandela
Goal: I want to go into business, either in starting a company that rents out A/V and other equipment for weddings or to buy cattle in Mutare Province to sell in Kigali
Favorite Quote:  “Begin with the end in mind.” – Seven Habits of Highly Effective People and “It always seems impossible until it’s been done” – Nelson Mandela
Hobbies: Drumming, praying and preaching (Pentecostal)

We were starting in on our investigation of student leadership at the village and had our first meeting scheduled with the Student Government one afternoon after lunch. Since the meeting was arranged by other staff members, we realized that we had no idea who was even a part of the Student Government or how we would find them. We asked a student we know who introduced to Oscar. Read More…

PATRICK

Age: 19
From: Kigali
Grade: Icyizere (S5)
ASYV Family: Albert Einstein
Goal: wants to continue studies and eventually be a lawyer
Favorite Quote: “Compare yourself with the best, not with the worst. If you want to compare, compare with those who have achieved what we are struggling to achieve.” – President Paul Kagame
Hobby: Dancing – he started dancing for fun at Boom, and “people told me I was good, so I started practicing.” Now, he started his own dance trio, The Afro-Quakers (ASYV Dance Troupe)

We first met Patrick at Debate Team practice our first Saturday (and first full day) in the Village. As we learned quickly in our time in ASYV, almost any time we appeared at an event or activity, we were quickly asked to help lead or facilitate. Upon showing up to see what Debate Team was all about, I was immediately asked to help Maxime (an Intern and coach of the Debate Team) ‘judge’ a practice debate between two teams by taking notes on each speaker and providing feedback. Patrick’s passionate and inquisitive speaking style struck me immediately. Read More…

PIERRE (AKA “JIMMY”)

Age: 22
From: Southern Province, Ruhango District, but now lives in Kigali
Grade: Ingenzi (graduated Jan. 2016)
ASYV Family: Sir Ronald Ross
Goal: I have two plans – 1) I really love music and love playing and teaching guitar and singing. 2) I want to become an Agricultural Trainer. I want to help the community by teaching skills to improve agricultural techniques. It’s one of Rwanda’s main sectors, so I want to help make it professional. Agriculture is my passion – it seemed like a dream to me, but now it seems like a reality, because I’m getting experience now. I really want to make a positive change in the community.
Favorite Quote: “Hard Work Pays” – shared by someone at Village Time and it just stuck with me; and “Failure is a stepping stone to success.”
Hobbies:  I like to give, to do Tikkun Olam, to help people. It’s the thing I like to do when I’m free – to find people who need help and to try to help them in any way I can.  I also love playing guitar. I only started in the 2nd term of 2014 (S5 year), but now I play all the time.

Jimmy spots you and approaches with a big smile. Your day is immediately better. There is something special about Jimmy that forces you to let your guard down and stop thinking about things that you may have been stressing about moments before. Read More…

TANITA

Age: 15
From: Kicukiro District
Grade: Isonga (EY)
ASYV Family: Ida B. Wells
Goal: She wants to finish her studies and become a writer, either an author a journalist
Favorite Quote: Change the world with your smile but don’t let the world change your smile
Hobbies: She loves reading, her favorite book is Esparansa Rising, which is about a girl who loses her parents and has to overcome her adversity. She like the book so much because she empathizes with the protagonist.

When we arrived at our first Debate Team meeting on Saturday morning, it was already in progress. The students were sitting as a group in the Green Clubhouse while one student was standing at the far opposite side of the room, speaking loudly and leading the group in a call and response style exercise. The goal of the exercise was to practice voice projection and the student leading (by clear example) was Tanita… Read More…

The Spirit of Rwanda

Since we are between Purim and Easter, and my last post was about politics, why don’t I just go ahead and cross the next thing off the “it’s impolite to discuss…” list. Let’s dive into the question of religion and how spirituality is affecting my and Jamie’s experience in Africa.

Rwanda as a whole is a largely catholic country, a little over half the country follows the Roman Catholic Church, a quarter are Protestant, and there are smaller communities of Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists, and Muslims. There seems to be almost no practicing community of Rwanda’s traditional, pre-colonial religion.

In his Letter from a Birmingham Jail, Martin Luther King Jr. identifies the Church’s responsibility not to just act as a social thermometer, reflecting society’s status quo, but to be a thermostat that spreads the warmth of love and justice. In Rwanda, you have starkly contrasting case studies of the Church reflecting the worst of a community’s ills, and promoting the best of its intentions. In 1994, Tutsi victims fled their killers and flocked to churches in the hope of finding sanctuary; almost none of them provided safety. Some of the most brutal massacres sites of the genocide are at churches where clergy welcomed in hunted families, only to then call in the interahamwe (militia) once they were all gathered for slaughter. The most famous church massacre took place in Nyarubuye, where an estimated two thousand people were butchered in a house of God. However, since the Genocide, missionaries and members of the clergy whose hands were not marked with the blood of genocide have taken a lead role in the work of reconciliation over the last twenty years. They have done the mind boggling work of bringing together perpetrators and survivors to rebuild Rwanda’s shattered society together. Indeed, without the belief that the image of our creator resides within all of us, how could one ever forgive such wanton cruelty and determined evil?

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Remains of 2,000 victims remain on display at the Nyarubuye church.

But this post is not about the Genocide. It’s about religion at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village (ASYV) and here at ASYV, religion matters to these kids, a lot. Students freely talk about their belief in and relationship with God, and it is commonplace to receive a blessing a long with a thank you. Every Sunday, you can see scores of teens gathered at the Roman Catholic Mass and hundreds more gathered and singing the gospel in Kinyarwanda at the Protestant service. At the Protestant service, two well-rehearsed student choirs take turns leading songs, singing the words of the Bible in Kinyarwanda to melodies that echo thousands of years of African culture and joy. When they are not signing or drumming, students volunteer to testify before one another, with Hallelujahs and Amens abounding from all chairs and mouths present.

The Catholic mass has a different feel to it. While the teens are every bit as enthusiastic, the service is far less participatory and much more passive, being led by one person while everyone mumbles along to a tune with some awkwardness. It felt like watching David Lee Roth cover a James Taylor song. The teens’ DNA tries so hard to push through the solemn European melodies with joyful African singing. The teens slowly sway to melodies that are meant for contemplation instead of dancing. It was a perfect embodiment of centralized versus decentralized rituals. While the protestant service beautifully blends African culture with a Christian ethos, the Catholic Service tries to fit an African hole with a European peg.

But denominational differences aside, the students’ religiosity is humbling, if not inspiring. The teens at ASYV are here because they were considered the most at-risk in their communities. Most of them are parentless, either by abandonment or death, and woefully impoverished. They have so much reason to harbor despair and anger and instead find strength, hope and love in one another. They rejoice in their belief in something beyond their selves or understanding. Arthur Schopenhauer, the 19th century German philosopher declared that, “every person takes the limit of their own field of vision for the limits of the world.” But perhaps, these teens prove just the opposite when applied to what is beyond our world. To borrow from and tweak Oscar Wilde, lying in the gutter gives you a better view of the stars.

ASYV’s Jewish genes come from its founder Anne Heyman, who was guided by her belief in Tikun Olam (The Jewish Belief in our obligation to complete God’s act of creation through ‘repairing the world’) to found the village. The students’ religious veracity makes it quite comfortable for me to share my Judaism with the students. It also helps that everyone says “Shabbat Shalom!” every Friday night to each other, an ongoing homage to Anne. While none of the students are Jewish, Judaism makes sense to them, especially Tikun Olam. Tikun Olam is not a substitute for spirituality, the way it is with many American Jews (I am guilty of it), it is an organic outgrowth of their spirituality and belief that they are part of something grander than their own lives and plans.

I have come to my own belief that religion at its best is a foundation for lasting communities, healthy inter-personal relationships and provides profound guidance to individuals over the basic questions of, “Why am I here and what am I supposed to do about it?” It really works when it does this without aspiring to power and that’s usually where it goes wrong. The way these teens and students embrace religion here is an incredible affirmation that it is possible and beautiful when achieved. Religious beliefs, practice and rituals infuse their lives with meaning and this community with a sense of shared purpose.

I can’t say I speak for Jamie on this, but I only hope that we find, or help build, a Jewish community that can provide us with the same type of inspiration, support, and meaning. Maimonides, the singular 12th century Jewish Talmudist and philosopher, said, “You must accept the truth from whatever source it comes.” Those are words to live by; take it from a Jewish educator who learned about organized religion from 500 at-risk Rwandan teens.