Rwanda’s Lesson for America

Rwanda demonstrates how leadership can channel a group’s character toward progress or destruction.

The highest-octane fuel on Earth is a shared purpose between individuals. Civilization’s steps forward and backwards can be traced to people bound together to change their world. It has propelled explorers into outer space and it has buried neighbors under own cruelty.

This double-edged sword defines Rwanda’s narrative, where my wife and I have spent considerable time, and the moral of its story deserves attention as we decide upon who will be the next US President. Rwanda’s success toward becoming the model 21st century African nation is drawn from the same well that propelled the country’s near-suicide in 1994. So what’s the difference? Leadership.

Rwandan society inculcates a view that individuals find safety inside the group. This manifests through subtle and overt social norms: students are less likely to ask questions or make points in class (girls especially), community-wide functions are widely held and attended, and Rwandans are generally receptive to top-down leadership. Umuganda, a modern iteration of an ancient tradition of monthly community service, is universally attended, not just because no-shows are fined, but because deferring to the community is a deeply seeded value within Rwandan psychology.

Conversations we had while working at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village and Akilah Institute for Women in Kigali further revealed popular devotion to community. These teens and students aspire to succeed financially, not to amass personal wealth, but to create jobs for their family and neighbors; their altruism is refreshing, if not startling. It is the engine for a remarkably efficient government initiative to push Rwanda into the 21st century. President Paul Kagame is transforming its capital, Kigali, from a dusty third-world ghost town into a modern center of commerce with new roads, hotels, restaurants, public Wi-Fi, and a brand new, state-of-the-art convention center, as well as a streamlined process to start a business. Rwanda is a developing nation in the truest sense of the term and its leaders push the country towards bolder and more ambitious achievements every day.

But one needs only recall 1994 to understand how dark this type of collective mobilization can turn. Of the myriad factors underlying the genocide, leadership stands at the center. Since Belgian colonizers showed up 90 years earlier, Rwandan leaders trained their people to view all issues through the tribal, zero-sum lens: “Is this good for Hutus or is this good for Tutsis?”. As Rwanda’s corrupt government officials felt power slip through their fingers in the early 1990’s, they doubled down on their only tactic: divide and conquer. That culminated with an unprecedented, vigilante-styled slaughter of a million innocents, committed by the victims’ countrymen, neighbors and even family members, who mercilessly carried out their leaders’ will.

This should be ice water in the face of those Americans whose pessimism clouds their view of the choice in this election. Beyond the enormous policy gulf, there is a canyon separating their demeanor and their driving message. Let’s put aside all the ways Trump personally disqualifies himself from the Presidency on an almost daily basis: He is a sexual assaulter (criminally so), he touts his ignorance, rudeness and cruelty as virtues, and his financial successes have hinged on exploiting the tax code, maliciously manipulating our legal system, and preying on smaller, vulnerable businesses. His moral bankruptcy seems to know no limits or shame, so what sustains his campaign? Sadly, his message, which is: “Things are the worse than ever! And you know whose fault it is? The politicians, the media and the PC losers! Instead of helping you, they’d rather lend a hand to illegal Mexican immigrants and Muslim refugees, some of whom are terrorists(!), while shipping your jobs to Mexico and China!”

Juxtaposed his message with what is Hillary’s angle, which is: “It’s been tough, but even if you can’t feel it, things are getting better. If we keep making incremental changes and use our growing diversity to our advantage, eventually we will all feel the improvements.”

Say what you will about Hillary, her authenticity, and secretive tendencies; she isn’t selling demagoguery. I am certainly not the first, tenth, or ten millionth person to say that Trump’s Make America Great Again campaign has all the sights, sounds, and smells of a would-be dictator. If this were Europe, we would just be a few “Jewish-run banks,” references away from a textbook campaign of fascism.

What would four years of poisoning our national discourse with violent chauvinism, xenophobia, divisiveness, and suspicion do to us as a country? Once we start normalizing molesting women, scapegoating Mexican-Americans, and excluding Muslim-Americans, where does it end? While America’s individualism is a repellent to demagoguery, we are not immune to the danger of delivering the world’s largest pedestal and levers to such an unconscionable man. Trump may not have the foresight to exploit a divided American people toward truly nefarious ends, but there are men surrounding him who would do just that.

Rwanda needed to heal societal cleaves. Instead their leaders pulled them further apart and tore their country to shreds in the process. Emerging from their own ashes, a new set of leaders chose togetherness over division and Rwanda has been ascendant ever since. As we approach an election unrivaled in the profundity of its consequences, I would remind my fellow Americans to learn from Rwanda, leadership matters.

Reflections on #africamp

This is our final blog post for our four month trip to Africa. Instead of my usual pontifications, this blog is broken down into a number of “top ten lists” in order to succinctly share the highlights; enjoy!

The 10 Best Things We Did 

Attend ASYV Debate Tournament

After being in the village for like two weeks, we joined the coaches and participants and spent a day in rapid-fire debates on the motion: The Rwandan government should significantly cut its current dependence on foreign aid. I learned a lot about the effects of foreign aid on Rwanda and the global south in general. But more importantly had an incredible day watching and coaching my team of three awesome girls who went on to win the city championship!

Akilah One-on-One meetings

The work we did at Akilah has meaningful in so many ways, and one of those ways in how it allowed us to jump on motos and meet with individuals around Kigali, whether it was worth current students, alumnae, or private sector employers who regularly hired interns and graduates from Akilah. The meetings gave Jamie and I an up-close look into the developing private sector of Rwanda and those who are building it from the ground-up.

Gorilla Trekking

Being close enough to see a fully grown silverback gorilla change its facial expression as it finishes eating one thing and considers if he wants to eat the next thing is…rad. Seriously, it was like close encounter of the best kind.

Driving the Garden Route (including Winelands)

South Africa is immersed in natural beauty and winding our way through the hills along the South and East Coast became like a 4 day drive through a series of impressionist paintings.

SAFARI!

Big Cats, Elephants, Hippos, Giraffes, Craters, Zebras, there is no better way to get lost in nature than safari in Masai Mara, Serengeti and Ngorogoro Crater.

Stonehenge

After safari, it was fitting to go from basking in the natural world to trying to pry into the minds of Neolithic men and women who used this site to…bury the dead? Observe the seasons? Pray? All of the above? Few places leave you with more questions that Stonehenge so obviously, we loved it.

Driving Tour of Capetown with Noel

Our driving tour with Noel was amazing because he showed us the sights and shared with us the stories of South Africa. Not just the ones that feel good to hear, about what a saint Mandela is or how great it was for Apartheid to be overthrown without a war. But he also told us the stories about government abuse and corruption that is severely souring the sweetness of what post-Apartheid South Africa could have looked like. For the comprehensiveness and the nuance that we learned, we will forever be grateful. 

White Water Rafting down the Nile

Jamie and I are not extreme sporters but we like to have fun. Rafting the Nile was about as far as we could go. We paddled our way through a couple of Category 5 rapids, got stuck under a 14 foot waterfall (that we rafted over) and we capsized twice…each time there was like a half second when one part of me went “huh, is this how Jamie tells everyone that I died?” But anyway, it was super-super fun and wouldn’t trade it back for anything. 

Attended Rwanda’s National Genocide Memorial at Amahoro National Stadium

While we didn’t see the Agahozo Shalom students perform, joining with Rwandans from around the country to come together to remember such a recent, painful, confusing and real trauma in ther collective psyche and individual lives was an honor. And because Rwandans are such hospitable people, we were welcomed into such a private, vulnerable moment with open arms and teary eyes. It was a moment through which I will feel connected to Rwanda for a very long time.

Spice Tour and Beach out in Zanzibar

With our volunteering and safari behind us, we took our last few days in Africa to check out Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania. While there we both went on a spice tour, where we used all five senses to learn more about how spices and herbs are planted, grow and are used culinarily, medicinally and cosmetically. We’ve done a lot of walking tours, but from this one we said, “Wait, but really?” way more than any other. Then we spent a few days to just sit on the beach at a resort and drink and eat like we were rehearsing for a Corona commercial. We stayed at the Beach Breeze Resort and I recommend it to all. We were also lucky because it was peak rainy season so prices were low, but it was still sunny and in the high eighties on most days. #winning.

IMG_7588

10 Teachers and What They Taught Us

  1. JC, Executive Director of Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – showed us how to hit that balance of bringing the the right people to the table with the right jobs and supporting them, but in a way that lets them do what you hired them to do, and therefore thrive.
  2. Vincent, Village Director of Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – taught us how to look at a start-up and begin building, in order to go from good to great
  3. Ritah, Alumnae Affiars Manager at Akilah Institute for Women – taught us how to love a job through building the relationships through those you serve
  4. Aline, Country Director for Akilah Institute for Women taught me about part of the psychology of Rwndans as refugees and what that means to their values and sense of self-value
  5. Noel, Tour Guide in Cape Town – taught us to look under the surface to see the stories less told in South Africa, post-Aparthied
  6. Nida, graduate of Akilah Institute for Women – taught us that where there’s a will there’s a way
  7. Francis, Tour Guide for Glory Safaris – taught us about the Maasai and how to consider the balance of thousands of years of traditions with modernity
  8. Jessica, Director of Registration and Career Development at Akilah Institute for Women – gave us a crash course in “Re-organizing the systems of your Start-up” through our work together at Akilah
  9. Maxime, graduate at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – who inspired us with his ambition, belief in hard work, and gratitude and eagerness towards opportunities and uphill battles
  10. Phyllis, fellow volunteer at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village – taught us how to give without imposing, to support without commandeering, to give in the truest sense of the word

IMG_7936

10 Assumptions Going to East Africa Tears Down

  1. Africa is too backwards for there to be significant progress any time soon.
  2. Africa is a great place to send charity to, not business contracts.
  3. African women are comfortable accepting a life similar to that of their mothers, grandmothers and great-grandmothers
  4. The best way for African problems to be solved is to find the equivalent problem in the US or Europe and just apply the model.
  5. Travelling in Africa is not safe.
  6. Unless they are rich, Africans do not speak English.
  7. Africans do not deal with issues around ‘colorism’ since almost everyone is black.
  8. Africa just needs “time” to get better.
  9. Africans think life is cheap.
  10. Africans are a “simple” people.

The 10 Things We Will Do When We Return to Africa

  1. Climb Kilimanjaro and do some Safari Hikes and Balloon Rides
  2. Do some work with African Innovation Prize
  3. Check out the Apartheid Museum in Soweto
  4. Attend Passover or Shabbat with the Abuyadaya in Uganda
  5. Stay over for a few nights in Addis Ababa
  6. See Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe
  7. Hike up a volcano in Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo
  8. Spend more time in Capetown and the Winelands in South Africa
  9. Visit the Nyamatta Church Genocide Memorial in the Southern Province of Rwanda
  10. Hike around Namibia

IMG_7943

 #africampers out…for now.

Safari, So Good!

“Still, we often talked on the farm of the Safaris that we had been on. Camping places fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember a curve of your wagon track in the grass of the plain, like the features of a friend.”

-Karen Blixen, “Out of Africa”

Trying to describe a safari in words is like describing a Bruce Springsteen concert by smell; it is bound to miss the point. So instead, this will be a “photo blog” with links to our 700 odd photos, organized into four categorical Google Photo albums.

But before I get there, a quick word of praise to Glory Safaris and Expeditions. Our tour guides were outstanding, knowledgeable, resourceful and oriented us to a foreign, enticing and inviting world. 

The Big Five 
(Click title above to see full album)

Lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and water buffalo have the honor of being included in the “Big Five” since they are difficult to hunt (at least before rifles) and were of great monetary worth (buffalo for meat, lions and leopards for paws and fur, elephants for tusks, and rhinos for their horn). Of the Big Five, the leopard is the most beautiful and the rhino is the hardest to spot. However, I assure you that to observe a lion that walks close enough to take you with one pounce is unmatchable.

Strange Beauties
(Click title above to see full album)

While these guys are not to be found in the Big Five, they are beautiful beasts that catch your eye and refuse to let go. In particular, the peculiar grace of a giraffe galloping at full speed is hypnotizing; while it can stride at over 30 miles per hour, it still looks like slow motion. Also included in this album are zebras, gazelle and impalas, agama lizards, jackals, and a saber cat.)

Homely Homies
(Click title above to see full album)

Despite all the beauty in nature, there’s also a lot of ugliness, specifically these animals that make up the “Ugly 6,” the vultures, hippos, wildebeests, hyenas, crocodiles and warthogs. Jamie and I disagree on the truly ugliest one of the bunch: I think it’s the wildebeest, which looks like the worst possible aesthetic combination of mules, buffalo, and a Haredi rabbi. Jamie thinks it’s the crocodile, which may be an ugly animal, but I think the croc is just a handsome dinosaur.

Feathers, Petals, People and Rocks
(Click title above to see full album)

While the animals are the main draw, there is much to be said for the non-mammals and reptiles of Africa. The birds, whether flamingos or eagles, are colored wildly and are endowed with eyes as focused as a razor’s edge. The geology of the Great Rift Valley and Ngorogoro Crater are as breathtaking as the vastness of the Serengeti (which is Swahili for “never ending plain). Within these rock formations, the flora brush hues of all colors to and over the horizon. A friend told me that while on safari, he was compelled to tears by the sheer beauty before his eyes, a first in his life. While Jamie and I didn’t shed tears, we share in the awe of such grandiosity.

And of course, the people who inhabit this particular piece of the world impacted us too; they are ancient, pastoral, and close to the land they have been cultivating for thousands of years. We spent significant time with members of the Maasai community, learning about the traditions of the famed lion hunting warriors, and how they today balance traditions like polygamy with modern expectations and norms throughout Kenya and Tanzania.

Lastly, my and Jamie’s Safari spirit animals, as decided for each of us by one another.

Jamie is a hyena: ruthlessly efficient, tenacious team-worker and never wanting for food. I on the other hand am an elephant: a mix of assertiveness and a penchant for introversion, comfort in moving with a herd, but also wanting time to be separate from the group.

 

Afripreneurs and Lionesses

“If the Asian Tiger was the economic success story of the last decades of the 20th century, the African Lion is going to be the success story of the twenty-first.” –Ashish J. Thakkar, Founder, Mara Group and Africa’s first billionaire 

“Women Hold Half the Sky.” –Mao Zedong

To explain the timing of our #africamp adventure: In December, Jamie left her long and celebrated tenure at Camp Tel Yehudah and I completed my MBA at Baruch College. It was with a new education, interest and curiosity towards private sector solutions that I arrived to Africa, and my expectations for seeing those solutions in action were met and easily exceeded.

Foreign aid conversations produce endless eye-rolls and shrugs. Our ethos dictates to give to the less fortunate; but the results of our foreign aid produce a mixed picture at best, and a failure at worst. But this is not just a foreign aid challenge, it is a general philanthropy problem. Improving “monitoring and evaluation” is an organizational hot topic in the non-profit world to compensate for the philanthropic sector’s lack of access to the best monitoring and evaluation tool: the market.

As Jacqueline Novogratz, states in The Blue Sweater, “Philanthropy alone lacks the feedback mechanisms of markets, which are the best listening devices we have.”

Businesses serve and rely on their customers. If a company cannot provide satisfactory services for a reasonable price, the customer finds it somewhere else and the company dies a natural death. However, many non-profits serve an audience but rely on a different group: funders. This bifurcation often creates “zombie” organizations that do not effectively serve their audience, but still limp along because funders artificially keep them alive, often because public fawning and praise for one’s generosity is as addictive as any drug.

This has proven to be an insurmountable challenge for much of the non-profit world.

Jamie Workshop

Jamie leads a skill-building workshop on communication at Akilah.

The Global South, and Africa in particular, understands the depth of this flaw. Around a trillion dollars of charity and foreign aid have arrived to the continent since the 1950’s and the impact of all that money is… not much. Foreign aid’s most notable, and regrettable, impact has been letting cruel and incompetent dictatorships off the hook by building the country’s infrastructure for them, allowing them to pilfer national reserves. I suggest John Kerry take a page from Josh Ruxin’s book, Thousand Hills to Heaven, “the most corrupt fifteen percent of nations – twenty-five countries, more or less, should be on the foreign aid black list, except…for dire emergencies.”

Just as important, the mindset of Westerners building Africa on behalf of Africans promotes a narrative that they are unable to do it themselves; a particularly dangerous form of racism masked by noble intentions.

My time here has taught me that Africans do not need, or want, Westerners to come build the continent for them. Rwanda’s government has made cultivating local business and attracting foreign investments a top priority. Officially registering a business is not only easy, but something that can be done in six hours. President Kagame has created a culture of accountability and service within the government, setting apart Rwanda from her neighbors. Philanthropies are noticing, and more enlightened ones have figured out not to lecture Rwandans, but listen first and then support.

We had several points of contact with the African Innovation Prize, which helps schools and organizations run business plan competitions, offering educational support for contestants and one-on-one mentorship for contest winners as they get their business started. Their model involves bringing in Western MBAs and business practitioners to mentor contestant winners three months. If Jamie and I don’t find work that we like in New York, you can expect us back here in that capacity.

What’s even more encouraging is that women are leading the way and the men increasingly not only realize it, but embrace it. Rwanda’s First Lady hosts a national “Miss Geek Competition,” challenging female Rwandan students to submit concepts to improve Rwanda’s standard of living through tech-based solutions. One of the students I advised at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village, Jermaine, submitted a concept to create a text message based national emergency response system. Another student, Ornella, wants to create an app that gives women access to information, both from professionals and crowd-sourced, on how to protect their reproductive health. One of my projects at Agahozo Shalom was advising on how to start a business plan competition for students, which we want to call “Start-up Rwanda” and will augment and showcase students’ creativity, problem-solving and initiative, the foundational elements of entrepreneurship.

Last week Jamie and I saw the enterprising skills of Rwandan women at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center, which runs a grassroots community tourism service with cooking classes, walking tours, and hand-made merchandise. They take “women’s work” and redefine it to make women financially independently.

Cooking Class

Learning how to cook at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center with Aminatha!

Jamie and I spent April consulting at the Akilah Institute for Women, which provides degrees to East African women in hospitality management, information technology management, and entrepreneurship. Jamie has developed a series of professional skill-building workshops; I worked with staff and alumnae to launch an alumnae association. The undertaking of Akilah is incredible, as are the women, who dedicate themselves to gaining the skills to provide for themselves, their family and communities. These young women come from across East Africa and epitomize how this generation is cutting against the historical grain, which dictated that men earn money while women stay home.

Andrew and Nida

Selfie with Nida, Inaugural President of the Akilah Alumnae Association.

None of these women is more impressive than Nida Giselle Iraguha, who graduated in 2015, got a job at Hotel Milles Collines (AKA The Hotel Rwanda) and was quickly offered a managerial position at the Kigali Convention Center (opening soon!). Nida is also the inaugural President of the Akilah Alumnae Association and has the kind of intelligence, charisma, and curiosity to galvanize her peers to move mountains. What is exciting is that soon Nida will be the expectation, not the exception, among Rwandan women.

Jamie and I are honored and inspired to witness and contribute in our own small way to Africa’s 21st century remedy to its 20th century ailments.

 

Signs and Wonders in South Africa

Passover has arrived, and with it the commandment to retell the story of our inspired and painful passage from oppression to freedom, and the “signs and wonders” (Exodus 7:3) that produced it. I find my mind keeps bringing me back to my and Jamie’s 10 days in South Africa, a land of signs and wonders; South Africa is blessed and cursed with beauty and pain interwoven into the fabric of every day life.

South Africa’s natural beauty is stunning. Jamie and I drove from Cape Town to Wine Country and then along the Garden Route to Knysna, and then back to Cape Town to hop on a train to Pretoria. South Africa is a continent unto itself, with scenery that switches seamlessly between, lush green hills, brown-orange dessert, majestic mountains, dense jungles, rivers that winding through canyons, and vast farmlands. From the clouds dramatically spill over Table Mountain to the intersection of the Indian Ocean, Atlantic Ocean and Antarctic at the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa is a biological, ecological and meteorological laboratory, bubbling and oozing new possibilities.

The line between man’s realm and the animal kingdom is blurry. At the beach you can walk alongside penguins and watch whales splash around. Driving inland, we hit a traffic jam because an ostrich was standing in the middle of the road, inspecting every car that went by. Whether it was ostriches, baboons, tortoises or other animals, our guide, Noel, would say, “Yeah, they walk around like they own the roads.”

IMG_5987

Ostrich Road Block at the Cape of Good Hope.

South Africa also looks different than everywhere else; most of the plant-life i is exclusive to South Africa’s biosphere. This botanical distinctiveness gives South Africa myriad agricultural and horticultural idiosyncrasies, from its flowers to its wines and meats, much of which Jamie and I indulged on non-stop (especially biltong, which is like jerky, but way, way better). South Africa’s natural gifts impart the country with incredible hiking, sightseeing, food, wine and general marveling.

These wonders are the backdrop of man’s struggle, and our guide, Noel, offered a glimpse into its signs. Noel is colored, a racial designation of mixed lineage; if Barack Obama were South African he’d also be colored. The colored community has a unique perspective on the transition from Apartheid, which protected White economic interests at the expense of blacks and coloreds, and the current regime, which often uses reverse discrimination to compensate blacks for Apartheid. Unfortunately, the colored community is small and while they are not suffering as they did under Apartheid, their interests are not guarded with the anything near the vigilance as for blacks.

He showed us how morally murky and economically perilous the government’s choices are. Noel is an excellent, highly competent tour guide, yet struggles to secure work consistently since most jobs are designated for blacks, not colored or white people; this type of affirmative action is widespread and has high political expedience, but ultimately it prevents South Africa’s best and brightest from uplifting themselves and South Africa. While he explained this to us, he drove us to a Township outside of Cape Town. While the Township looked like a shantytown for hundreds of thousands of poor souls, Noel warned us to look upon the township with skepticism, not pity. He told is that on the outside they look like tin cans, but pointed out that almost every home had a satellite dish. He told us if we ever walked into one of those tin shacks, we would see they generally are far more luxurious than their exterior would indicate. I regret that I never got to see the inside of a home and confirm or dispute Noel.

20160204_161435

Noel, our excellent tour guide, with us at a winery outside of Cape Town.

He also overturned our assumption that those who lived in townships were stuck there, forced by their poverty to live in these impromptu ghettos. He explained, “The government’s policy is that any black person who shows up to a piece of vacant land and builds a tin-house becomes entitled to that house and land. If the government knocks it down, it has to build a permanent structure for them. So people build these tin shacks and then eventually the government obliges them 5 years later by knocking it down and building them a nice home for free. I wouldn’t mind, but they steal the electricity from nearby lines (why we have power outages all the time) and these people aren’t from Cape Town. So many come from the East Coast and while they live here for free are renting their homes in Durban or Soweto. They are really turning a nice profit for themselves at everyone’s expense.”

Jobs and housing are foundations of society, and while the evils of Apartheid are gone, the incompetence of dysfunctional democracy poses incredible dangers to South Africa. Over the past year the value of the Rand fell by 60% against the dollar, and while everyone knows the President, Jacob Zuma, is corrupt, no one expects to see him leave his post. That type of resignation to government failure is dangerous to a country and I only hope that South Africans reclaim their national aspirations. While we were in Pretoria, protests raged against Jacob Zuma in anticipation of his “State of the Nation,” address, demanding he resign; God’s Speed to the protester.

But hope endures in a country that produced Nelson Mandela. South Africans of all races speak of Mandela like Americans speak of Lincoln, and Jews speak of Moses. His wisdom and incorruptibility stands as a voice of conscious for the country. He brought his people out of oppression and led them towards the Promised Land. And while many South Africans are discouraged by the country’s politics, they should take heart in the Exodus story. After overturning Pharaoh, the Hebrews needed forty years of wandering in the dessert before they could enter the Land of Israel. Apartheid was a 20th century Mitzrayim. South Africans will decide whether to remain in the dessert or continue their long walk to freedom, transforming their country into a 21st century land of milk and honey.

20160203_140106

Click the photo of “Nobel Square” in Cape Town to see our Paris and South Africa Google Photo Album!

These Start-up Exile Nations

After comparing the Holocaust and Rwanda’s Genocide commemoration, another powerful parallel emerges: the role of refugees. Today, you’d never know that less than twenty years ago, nearly 40% of Rwandans had been refugees or the children of refugees. Between 1959-1994, seven hundred and fifty thousand Tutsis were chased across Rwanda’s borders by government-sponsored pogroms. Immediately following the 1994 genocide, two MILLION Hutus fled to neighboring Zaire (now Democratic Republic of Congo) for fear of Tutsi retaliation. But by 1998, almost all refugees, Tutsi and Hutu alike, had returned to the land of their forefathers.

0F4B20FF3EA8E2EEC1256F2D0047FD3D-gl_ref94

United Nations map of Rwandan Refugee Population Centers, circa December 1994.

Nothing about Rwanda seems like a nation of strangers. On the contrary, Jamie and I have been struck by how ubiquitous the combination of altruism and patriotism is here and the sincerity with which so many Rwandans seek meaning through building Rwanda. And the quantum leap this country has made over the last twenty years is a personal point of pride of every Rwandan we meet. Rwanda in 1994 showed the horror of what a mob can commit, Rwanda in 2016 shows the potential of what a community can accomplish.

Jews who know their history understand the transformation from exile to prosperity. David’s Kingdom and Solomon’s Temple were built on 440 years of slaves and wanderers’ dreams. In the 20th Century, millions of Jews made homeless and nationless by the Holocaust and freshly minted Arab autocracies came to Israel to build a home that would be everything their last residences were not. History will ultimately judge their success, but there is much to celebrate.

Israel-Jewish-refugees

Jewish refugees from Arab countries prepare for life in the new State of Israel, courtesy of the Henry Jackson Society.

There are myriad reasons why Israel quickly ascended from nascent state to a military, educational, technological and cultural force and there are as many reasons that Rwanda is in the midst of an historic trajectory towards a 21st century African success. But their success’ secret sauce may be how both countries’ allowed their refugees to catalyze progress.

How does a gathering of refugees, the supposed wretched of the Earth, spark success? From conversations I have had with Rwandan and Israeli friends, co-workers and educators who were refugees or well studied on refugees, I have very unscientifically observed three indicative adaptations many (certainly not all) refugees use towards self-preservation: striving, community facing, and self-supporting.

Refugees are made to feel less than their neighbors, who are citizen while they are aliens. Citizens feel shame or pride for their country, but refugees cannot feel either, deprived of the dignity of belonging. Instead they inherit a humiliating sense of inferiority that only subsides after a life of proving one’s worth.

A standard modus operandi for governments hosting refugees includes neglecting to provide basic services and to actively block refugees from educational and employment advancement opportunities. Therefore, most refugees learn quickly that all they have is each other. This heavy interdependence breeds deep fidelity to the community and builds a dense network of connectivity. In other words, networking is not a professional tactic; it’s a survival strategy.

Even counting on the strength of their community normally does not give refugees much control their own destiny. They cannot get a legitimate job, grow food, or dig a well since the country’s opportunities and natural resources are not meant for them. They are forced to subsist on the charity of others, which quickly metastasizes into a culture of dependence, which changes charity into poison. Consequently, once they reclaim self-reliance, refugees are loath to ever concede it again.

FM-Liberman-Rwanda-1

Inauguration of the Center of Excellence for Horticultural Development in Rwanda, courtesy the Foreign Ministry of Israel.

The constant striving to prove self-worth, the thick connectivity among community members, and the deep desire for true autonomy drove forward Israel and Rwanda. There is something distinctively familiar floating in the air here in Rwanda, a “chalutzic” gust that blows through both the Judean hills and this “Land of a Thousand Hills.” The chalutzim were early Jewish pioneers who toiled to build Israel’s foundations, reinvigorating local agriculture, founding the first modern Hebrew city, Tel Aviv, and even resurrecting the spoken language of Hebrew. They placed their lives in service of rebuilding their country from almost nothing.They would fit in very well in Rwanda.

The government is remarkably focused on lifting Rwanda out of poverty. Shopkeepers, cab drivers, entrepreneurs and high school students all have an opinion on how to reduce Rwanda’s dependency on foreign aid. Teens profess their dreams, not to be millionaires, but to start businesses that create jobs. On the first Saturday of every month, all Rwandans are expected to join members of their neighborhood or village to do public works, from planting trees to sweeping the streets. I have spent the last two weeks working with local women to help to launch the Akilah Women’s Institute Alumnae Association. The young women I speak to are nearly unanimous that the association’s goal should not be focused on helping alumnae, but on organizing alumnae to serve Rwandan women at large.

An ancient motif is that great leaders must go forth into the wilderness before leading their people. Moses sojourned to Midian before taking Israel out of Egypt. Jesus fasted in the desert before his final passion. Mahatma Gandhi practiced law in South Africa before taking up the banner of Indian independence. Nelson Mandela sat like Buddha in a prison cell for twenty-seven years before ending Apartheid.

But what about when a people, not a person, treks through the wilderness? Today’s zeitgeist dictates that they become a smoldering oven of hatred and violence. In Jordan, Serbia, Pakistan, Chad, etc. we have seen refugee centers turned into petri dishes of extremism. But Israel and Rwanda bare witness to what can be accomplished through ingathering the dispersed. These start-up exile nations are instructive to dealing with a swelling global refugee crisis. All in highly different circumstances, these three countries show how to unleash people’s drive, creativity and compassion by giving them the opportunity to work towards success. In doing so, the nationless of today can be the remedy to, not a source of, global woes. Someone ought to remind Donald Trump that America’s success and vitality comes from a similar recipe.

Kwibuka and Yizkor: In the Shadow of Two Genocides

“‘And this also,’ said Marlow suddenly, ‘has been one of the dark places of the earth.'”

Joseph Conrad, Heart of Darkness

“Some days circle and circle, some days soar above like kites, some days like hyenas wait for the story to die.”

Juliane Okot Bitek, 100 Days

Twenty-two years after Rwanda plummeted into one hundred days of madness, the week of Kwibuka (Kinyarwanda for remember) for the Tutsi Genocide has drawn to a close. There is both so little and so much to say about an entire nation submerging in blood and its worldwide complicity, whether through choosing blissful ignorance (United States and UK), using bureaucracy to mask cowardice (United Nations) or even covertly supporting it (France).

In Rwanda and in Israel, I have stood along survivors of genocide in a country whose collective narrative is inseparable from that genocide. The parallels are painfully apparent between these two genocides:

A despotic government manipulates animosity against a small minority it portrays as alien, privileged, scheming, and constantly exploiting the true citizens. That animosity, cultivated in poverty, metastasized into open hostility through fear and a dominant culture of conformity. And then the final catalyst needed to mutate hostility into mass murder: war. Citizens become targets to their own neighbors and friends; seemingly overnight, everyone was either assigned as predator or prey.

IMG_6533

Rwandans mourn and comfort each other at Kwibuka 22 commemoration event in Kigali.

As slaughter raged, the world turned a blind eye, unable to countenance such mayhem, nor willing to take responsibility to stop it. The United States, Europe and neighboring countries idly looked the other way. In this modern incarnation of Cain and Abel, the Catholic Church provided no refuge for Abel and local clergy even joined Cain. Eventually the madness subsided with invading soldiers restoring order but as emaciated and dazed survivors emerged, the staggering human and psychological toll had already been paid.

The broad strokes of 1945 and 1994 are hauntingly familiar, but the distinctions are clear. Of the many differences, I focus on four.

Banality vs. Bloodlust of Evil

Nazis and Hutu extremists took opposite approaches to dehumanize their victims. The Third Reich reduced victims into numbers and mass murder into a sterilized bureaucracy. The S.S. shuttled Jews, Gypsies and others to remote camps to give Germans and collaborators psychological space and let people feel the genocide was outside their realm. This was the unspoken pact between perpetrators and bystanders: kill millions and pretend it’s not happening.

Not the case in Rwanda. Killers reveled in the orgy of blood. The planners’ strategy was to nullify the criminality of genocide by casting guilt on everyone. Instead of using bureaucracy as an anesthetic for the murderers, the genocidaires celebrated murder as an act of community consecration. The Interahamwe (local death squads) conscribed every Hutu man to kill Tutsis or provide material support to the effort. Consequently, Tutsis were chased and called out by name by their neighbors, friends, and even family.

Genocide as Ends or Genocide as Means

One of the Holocaust’s great paradoxes was the extreme operational rationality used to achieve an irrational aim. Hitler’s ultimate aspiration for “Greater Germany” was undermined by the Holocaust since it diverted significant resources from battlefields to concentration camps, with no resulting benefit.

Not the case in Rwanda. Killing Tutsis was not a goal, but the chosen method of a corrupt, hateful cadre of politicians and generals to retain power. Hutu extremists saw the sun setting on their reign and to prevent its end, they incentivized poor Hutus to kill their Tutsi neighbors and claim their possessions. Many genocidaires have admitted that they spent as much time looting as killing. These leaders believed the genocide would go unpunished and would eliminate the prospect of any future power-sharing agreement. The genocide may have looked like an eruption of passion, but it was planned along cool political calculus.

Tel Aviv isn’t in Treblinka

20160413_170844

Jamie and I visited the site of a mass grave for genocide victims, which sits about a quarter mile from our house.

The most salient distinction resides in the nature of the recovery process. Holocaust survivors left Europe for Israel and the US to start over and Nazis have rightly become synonymous with evil. Physical and moral distance from one’s oppressor bolsters the psychological rehabilitation.

Not the case in Rwanda. The moral distance is compressed and there is zero physical distance. While Jews ask, “How could we suffer this?” Rwandans ask, “How could we suffer and perpetrate this?” Tremendous effort has been invested into reconciling survivors and perpetrators, but there is no precedent for two sides of a genocide living together afterwards. While thousands have been imprisoned for their involvement, justice is a relative, and tortured term. Rwanda turns “No Justice, No Peace!” on its head. Justice and peace have become conflicting values. If justice were truly served then all perpetrators would be imprisoned. But then Rwanda would sink even deeper into poverty, ushering in starvation, crime, hopelessness, war, and that’s right: another genocide.

Thousands of confessed perpetrators were freed, returning to their homes and working next to their former prey. How are the widowed and orphaned survivors supposed to find justice in a world where their former murderers have been reunited with their family and fields? In Rwanda, survivors have been asked to concede personal justice in the interest of national peace.

Sirens and Hands

IMG_6532

Phyllis holds hands with Rwandans during a moment of remembrance as a community.

Kwibuka Week crescendos at Amahoro National Stadium during a nationally televised ceremony. At the culminating moment, tens of thousands in attendance stand and hold hands. On Israel’s Yom HaShoah (Holocaust Remembrance Day), sirens blare across the country and the nation stands at attention. The difference between holding hands and listening to a siren is telling: sirens remind Israel to be vigilant against outside oppressors; holding hands reminds Rwanda that our touch has the power to destroy and the power to protect each other. Both bare witness to the nadir of their people and call on us to confront evil wherever we see it. May we all raise our consciousness, empathy and care towards those who are suffering, from Burundi to Syria.

To learn more about the 1994 Rwandan Genocide, I recommend Phillip Gourevitch’s “We Wish to Inform you that Tomorrow We will be Killed with our Families,” Steven Kinzer’s “A Thousand Hills” and Jean Hatzfield’s literary trilogy “Life Laid Bare,” “Machete Season,” and “The Antelope’s Strategy.”

The Spirit of Rwanda

Since we are between Purim and Easter, and my last post was about politics, why don’t I just go ahead and cross the next thing off the “it’s impolite to discuss…” list. Let’s dive into the question of religion and how spirituality is affecting my and Jamie’s experience in Africa.

Rwanda as a whole is a largely catholic country, a little over half the country follows the Roman Catholic Church, a quarter are Protestant, and there are smaller communities of Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists, and Muslims. There seems to be almost no practicing community of Rwanda’s traditional, pre-colonial religion.

In his Letter from a Birmingham Jail, Martin Luther King Jr. identifies the Church’s responsibility not to just act as a social thermometer, reflecting society’s status quo, but to be a thermostat that spreads the warmth of love and justice. In Rwanda, you have starkly contrasting case studies of the Church reflecting the worst of a community’s ills, and promoting the best of its intentions. In 1994, Tutsi victims fled their killers and flocked to churches in the hope of finding sanctuary; almost none of them provided safety. Some of the most brutal massacres sites of the genocide are at churches where clergy welcomed in hunted families, only to then call in the interahamwe (militia) once they were all gathered for slaughter. The most famous church massacre took place in Nyarubuye, where an estimated two thousand people were butchered in a house of God. However, since the Genocide, missionaries and members of the clergy whose hands were not marked with the blood of genocide have taken a lead role in the work of reconciliation over the last twenty years. They have done the mind boggling work of bringing together perpetrators and survivors to rebuild Rwanda’s shattered society together. Indeed, without the belief that the image of our creator resides within all of us, how could one ever forgive such wanton cruelty and determined evil?

url.jpg

Remains of 2,000 victims remain on display at the Nyarubuye church.

But this post is not about the Genocide. It’s about religion at Agahozo Shalom Youth Village (ASYV) and here at ASYV, religion matters to these kids, a lot. Students freely talk about their belief in and relationship with God, and it is commonplace to receive a blessing a long with a thank you. Every Sunday, you can see scores of teens gathered at the Roman Catholic Mass and hundreds more gathered and singing the gospel in Kinyarwanda at the Protestant service. At the Protestant service, two well-rehearsed student choirs take turns leading songs, singing the words of the Bible in Kinyarwanda to melodies that echo thousands of years of African culture and joy. When they are not signing or drumming, students volunteer to testify before one another, with Hallelujahs and Amens abounding from all chairs and mouths present.

The Catholic mass has a different feel to it. While the teens are every bit as enthusiastic, the service is far less participatory and much more passive, being led by one person while everyone mumbles along to a tune with some awkwardness. It felt like watching David Lee Roth cover a James Taylor song. The teens’ DNA tries so hard to push through the solemn European melodies with joyful African singing. The teens slowly sway to melodies that are meant for contemplation instead of dancing. It was a perfect embodiment of centralized versus decentralized rituals. While the protestant service beautifully blends African culture with a Christian ethos, the Catholic Service tries to fit an African hole with a European peg.

But denominational differences aside, the students’ religiosity is humbling, if not inspiring. The teens at ASYV are here because they were considered the most at-risk in their communities. Most of them are parentless, either by abandonment or death, and woefully impoverished. They have so much reason to harbor despair and anger and instead find strength, hope and love in one another. They rejoice in their belief in something beyond their selves or understanding. Arthur Schopenhauer, the 19th century German philosopher declared that, “every person takes the limit of their own field of vision for the limits of the world.” But perhaps, these teens prove just the opposite when applied to what is beyond our world. To borrow from and tweak Oscar Wilde, lying in the gutter gives you a better view of the stars.

ASYV’s Jewish genes come from its founder Anne Heyman, who was guided by her belief in Tikun Olam (The Jewish Belief in our obligation to complete God’s act of creation through ‘repairing the world’) to found the village. The students’ religious veracity makes it quite comfortable for me to share my Judaism with the students. It also helps that everyone says “Shabbat Shalom!” every Friday night to each other, an ongoing homage to Anne. While none of the students are Jewish, Judaism makes sense to them, especially Tikun Olam. Tikun Olam is not a substitute for spirituality, the way it is with many American Jews (I am guilty of it), it is an organic outgrowth of their spirituality and belief that they are part of something grander than their own lives and plans.

I have come to my own belief that religion at its best is a foundation for lasting communities, healthy inter-personal relationships and provides profound guidance to individuals over the basic questions of, “Why am I here and what am I supposed to do about it?” It really works when it does this without aspiring to power and that’s usually where it goes wrong. The way these teens and students embrace religion here is an incredible affirmation that it is possible and beautiful when achieved. Religious beliefs, practice and rituals infuse their lives with meaning and this community with a sense of shared purpose.

I can’t say I speak for Jamie on this, but I only hope that we find, or help build, a Jewish community that can provide us with the same type of inspiration, support, and meaning. Maimonides, the singular 12th century Jewish Talmudist and philosopher, said, “You must accept the truth from whatever source it comes.” Those are words to live by; take it from a Jewish educator who learned about organized religion from 500 at-risk Rwandan teens.

Lama Lo Uganda?

Jamie and I sojourned for a long weekend in Uganda. While Kampala didn’t impress us except for insane traffic, it was a wonderful break from work. We went whitewater rafting down the Nile River and lounged, ate, and happily languished in the sun with drinks in hand. As always, if you want to see photos, including of when we capsized (twice), check our Google Photo Album or follow me (@thewanderingview) or Jamie (@jewsforcheesus) on Instagram.

Not so long ago there was a popular Israeli song titled “Lama Lo Uganda?” Hebrew for, “Why not Uganda?” Here’s a little historical context: In the early 20th century, Great Britain was trying to figure out how to make allies of both Jews and Arabs leading up to World War I. The only way to do that was to find a solution to the conflicting Jewish and Arab aspirations for that blessed and cursed tract of land between the Jordan River and Mediterranean Sea. And Great Britain figured it out: let the Arabs have Palestine and give the Jews Uganda! It’s a national Jewish homeland, just in a place where Jews had no historical, spiritual, or physical connection; the Zionist Congress roundly rejected it. The song is lighthearted, ironically lamenting that maybe Uganda was the way to go.

The Uganda Plan was a bad idea; it shifted a problem instead of solving it and it attempted to hollow out the ideals of Zionism while leaving the packaging intact and call it whole. But cutting corners for convenience is ubiquitous: it’s in every organization, hierarchy, and culture in the form of jargon. I define jargon as when a term becomes a symbol and that symbol ends up replacing independent thinking and the goal it was actually established to meet. In business, managers constantly invoke the virtue of efficiency to drive decisions. But efficiency is never the business’s goal, just one indicator among many others. Eliyahu M. Goldratt and Jeff Cox capture this “tail wagging the dog” phenomenon in their book, “The Goal.”

url-1

In the non-profit industry, managers pray at the altar of innovation, but to what end? Innovation is important, but it so often causes so much hand-wringing it’s as if organizational missions are reduced to being the vehicle to simply showcase innovation. There are myriad examples to include but let’s move to the next point: Democracy in most of East Africa today is little more than jargon.

Democracy is when a society regulates itself to create constructive tension and harmony between individuals and sub-groups, to the benefit of that society as a whole. No one does this perfectly; democracy is as much a group journey as it as a set of systems and institutions.  America is an exciting democracy despite, and in some ways because of, its warts, many of which are on full display when Donald Trump tries to poison our country for his own profit. Borrowing from MLK, America’s moral arc is long and uneven, but it bends towards justice. Our democracy is more inclusive and mature than it was 50 years ago and 50 years from now it will be even more so than today.

But in most of East Africa, while the word democracy is everywhere, only the packaging is left intact. Elections were just held in Uganda; President Yoweri Museveni won handily and few believe the results have any authenticity. Elections are the easiest imitations of democracy to display for foreign governments and investors and, in this region, they rarely reflect popular opinion. Even in South Africa, where election results are honest, anyone who is not a beneficiary of the African National Congress hardly feels like they get a whisper in government decisions. Many protest, but more resign themselves to a corrupt, incompetent government. The regimes in Kenya and (un)Democratic Republic of the Congo are too busy remembering who they took bribes from to even feign democracy.

Is this a uniform condemnation? Hardly. We have a fairly fixed conception of democracy: regular elections with universal suffrage, an independent judiciary, protection of press, free expression, and private property. All of these may be a part of our utopian vision but if those conditions are the whole of the democracy we promote, instead of the core pursuit of creating harmony within a society, then we compel these countries to jargnoize democracy for the sake of foreign cash flow. In “Long Walk to Freedom” Nelson Mandela speaks about his childhood village tribal councils. Tribesmen would come to the hall of the chief, present pressing conflicts, and the chief would build an agreement by consensus. The chief was born into his position, so by our standards this is not a democracy. Yet Mandela praised this system as democratic since it settled conflict and created cooperation among quarreling neighbors. Who am I to disagree with the great Madiba!

In “We Wish to Inform You that Tomorrow We will be Killed with our Families” President Museveni explains his disinterest in a Ugandan multi-party democracy by making the comparison to a man with a heart condition who tries to prove his good health and kills himself in the process. The “democratizing” of Iraq and Arab Spring prove the point quite well. We jammed in the mechanisms of democracy where the societal cohesiveness was not strong enough to hold up and what we got are dictators and the Islamic State.

m_28

Zimbabwe’s President Robert Mugabe, Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni, DRC’s President Joseph Kabila, Uhuru Kenyatta of Kenya, and Jacob Zuma at a ceremony to celebrate the peaceful transfer of power in Tanzania.

Rwandan President Paul Kagame also leads a single-party government and controls the army, which does not hesitate to instruct people on how they should vote when elections are held; no one expects this to change, but should we wag our finger at Kagame? It was only 22 years ago that Rwanda suffered a genocide rooted in the rivalry between Hutus and Tutsis. For democracy to work, citizens must believe that their destiny is enmeshed with the destiny of all their neighbors. Otherwise the staples of democracy are little more than a coat of polish on tribal vitriol. Perhaps Rwanda will host a vibrant political discourse someday with great discord and dignity, but to push that prematurely is not just dangerous, it’s radioactive. You need look no further than Burundi on Rwanda’s southern border to see that Hutu-Tutsi violence remains a potent threat.

So what am I to think? Democracy is a fig leaf for single party rulers, so that’s bad!

But that may be the only way to set the foundations to uphold a democracy, so that’s good!

But we’ll only know that’s the case if a peaceful transfer of power can take place, so that’s…inconclusive.

There is no stress test for if these governments are ushering their countries towards democracy or away from it. Only when Kagame, Museveni, et al either die or step down will we know down which road they have led their people. How frustrating to the instant gratification seeking millennial who is thirsty to witness history, good or bad.

Maybe I should just be content with a fun get-away and ask “Lama Lo Uganda?”

Muzungus in the Mist

“The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla, the more you want to avoid people.”

Dian Fossey, author of Gorillas in the Mist

This past week Jamie and I headed to western Rwanda, to spend a day lounging by Lake Kivu, by the border with the (Un)Democratic Republic of Congo, which was absolutely lovely. But that lounging was in preparation for the following day: waking up at 5am to head out for a trek through rain and fog up a mountain to hang with a family of 20+ gorillas, called the Susa Family, who happen to be the family of gorillas famously studied by Dian Fossey herself. We spent 2-3 hours hiking up from 6,000 feet up a fairly steep mountain that tops out at about 9,000 feet. The mountainside was home to lush green farmland (we were a distillery away from being sure we transported to Scotland), curious local farmers and kids, and dense bamboo forests.

It was the kind of hike where the physical exertion matches the mental serenity and by the time you nearly reach the destination you’re out of breath (the air is pretty thin at 9,000 feet in the air), exhausted, and dirty. But you still think, “Wow the journey is the destination.”

Then you see the gorillas.

And you realize, no, the destination really is the destination.

We spent an hour observing the Susa family of mountain gorillas close up; as in close enough to reach out and touch them since they’re fairly blasé about our presence. After getting up close and personal with the gorillas we returned down the mountain. At the foot of the mountain, where jeeps awaited us, there was a group of villagers selling various merchandise, including shirts that said “Muzungus in the Mist,” (Muzungu is basically Rwandan for “honkey” or white person). I thought it funny enough to earn the title of this post.

That tangent aside, it’s impossible to not itch with curiosity towards how a species so close to human lives and plays. Watching an animal that can use its opposable thumbs will always be striking. Observing them was like doing a review of what some our most basic psychological needs. Four needs that stuck out the most to me include:

Our Need for Safe Space

IMG_7704

A Susa baby gorilla finds safe space on mama’s back

The gorillas were comfortable with us watching them eat and play up close, but we were warned that it was possible they would not be so ok with us entering the territory in which case we would have to communicate our deference to them through kneeling down and avoiding eye contact. The need to have territory for oneself, family, tribe (extended family) or nation (coalition of extended families) is taken seriously by the gorillas.

It speaks to how crucial safe space is to our own psyche. As individuals we have places that we guard jealously, whether they be houses, bedrooms, or for New Yorkers a 10X10 foot shoebox they call a modest studio with great location.

The world is full of uncertainty and danger. Keeping a safe space is an insurance policy that if the rest of the world becomes too scary, we have one place into which we, and our most loved ones, can retreat and plan our next step.

Our Need to Share

The gorillas are a cooperative species. They share their space and their food (though they also make clear to the others when not to mess with their food). Sharing is critical on multiple levels. The first is on a basic level of survival. Now to be clear, gorillas will allow one of their own to die if natural selection deems it correct. But survival is not an individual contest for the gorillas; it is a collective undertaking by the family. Therefore sharing is essential to ensuring that the maximal amount of the family can survive, produce children and care for those children until adulthood (gorillas tend to breastfeed for about three years…I think).

But there is another level and explanation to the centrality of sharing to our own psyche: it is how we create and maintain connections to others. Whether sharing food, space, or time, doing so reaffirms our desire to connect and reinforces that connection to do so. The world is a harsh place, so I need someone I can trust. I can only trust someone who understands me and I understand them. I can only understand someone, and they understand me, if we have a genuine connection. How do I create and maintain that connection? Through sharing my experience with them, and they with me. And the more we share, the stronger that connection and trust is.

Our Need for Silly

IMG_7718

Two young members of the Susa family get tangled up and turned upside down while wrestling (all in the name of fun, of course!)

The most entertaining thing to watch on the mountain was how the young gorillas played with each other, wrestling, teasing each other and rolling around the hill. Does this help develop the young gorillas ability to handle physical confrontation? Yeah. Does it also play a role in helping the gorillas determine dominance at various stages of development? Probably. But it also is because while the world is harrowing, sometimes the best inoculation is remembering that we can choose times to forget about the world and just do something fun and revel in our senses, physical prowess and roll around a muddy slope.

Our Need to Resolve Conflict

But not all physical interactions are sharing and playing. We watched as gorillas resolved scuffles among the family, either because one was eating another’s food, getting in another’s way or whatever else it is that gorillas bicker over. It was exhilarating and a little scary to be standing eight feet from two gorillas who escalated from grabbing at the same food to literally beating their chests at each other in about ten seconds. But what was much more interesting was how instantly the quarrel was resolved, one gorilla would back down, and then within a minute they might be playing together or picking the ticks off each other. Lesson: once a grievance has been resolved, you only waste time in stewing over it. Let me know when you figure out how to do that, I would love to learn that trick.

One Final Note

Mountain gorillas are as endangered as they are majestic. They only live in the rain forest that is split between Uganda, Rwanda and (Un)Democratic Republic of Congo. The Rwandan Government goes to admirable lengths to protect the mountain gorillas, as does the Ugandan Government. The DRC though…well let’s just say the gorillas have figured out they are better off leaving the DRC. The government is beyond corrupt and for the right price you can set a trap that will ensnare a gorilla. There is something poetic in the mountain gorillas reacting to the effects of a dysfunctional human cooperative enterprise.

20160229_121818

Required gorilla selfie! #Africamp

Check out tons more photos of these amazing gorillas here!

Photo credit (mostly) to Jamie Maxner.